Wine Review: Washington State Mourvedre

I’m a big fan of Mourvedre from Bandol and Murcia, but I’ve never tried any from Washington. 

Washington Reds

Washington State produces mostly reds (55%), and most of that is Cabernet Sauvignon along with Merlot and Syrah. I’ve had some good GSM blends too but iffy Pinot Noir from the region. 

Washington State typically produces bold, rich red wines but its cold nights keep them from becoming jammy. One example of this bold style with New World lush fruit but balanced is the wines from former rock music manager Charles Smith. He’s behind the labels Kung Fu Girl Riesling, The Velvet Devil Merlot, Substance Wines (recently sold) and K Vintners, which produces higher end Syrah. 

Although I was tempted to buy a K Vintner wine last time I was in the US,  I’m typically looking for something different, so I found this Washington GSM blend of 70% Mourvèdre (normally you need to be 75% of a variety to label it as such) from Brennon Leighton, the former winemaker of Charles Smith’s wines. Leighton is now focusing on his own projects like his B. Leighton label and consulting but he was helped by Charles Smith’s marketing team, etc.    

What I like about Mourvedre is the animal, gamey and leathery side of it along with the dark, herbal structured fruit it brings. I often get anise in the Bandol versions too. Traditional Bandol reds with Mourvedre as the dominant grape are ageworthy and complex. However, the Mourvedre (Monastrell) from Murcia (appellations like Jumilla, Bullas and Yecla) have more price points and styles with entry level ones being lighter, fruit-forward and for immediate consumption. Let’s see what this Washington State Yakima Valley version is like. 

Tasting Notes 

2019 B. Leighton Wines Olsen’s Brothers Vineyard Gratitude Yakima Valley 

70% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 5% Syrah. Neutral barrels. The nose is all about ripe blue and purple fruits with a touch of savory, meatiness. Dried plum. The palate is only medium-bodied and more restrained than what the nose shows. Medium-acid. Smooth tannins. There’s a bit of licorice and medicinal notes. Sort of like Petite Sirah, but the alcohol is more restrained and there’s less body. I like the elegance and restraint despite being more modern in terms of ripeness and roundness. 14% alcohol. Yakima is from a cooler part of the Columbia Valley. Definitely would not mistake this for Bandol. Maybe Murcia, but I would probably guess New World first but not necessarily Mourvèdre because this could be mistaken for Syrah or Petite Sirah as I said. Either way, it’s a yummy wine that should be a crowd pleaser as well. 92 

 

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