Carignan has been making a comeback as a varietal wine, but it also deserves to be part of Rhone blends as well.
Carignan’s History in Blends
I just reviewed some Chilean VIGNO, which is old-vine varietal Carignan. It’s my alternative to Italian Sangiovese here in Chile. However, Carignan was historically also widely planted in the Languedoc, California and Catalonia as a blending grape. It adds fresh acidic structure, spice and color to softer, riper and lighter colored wines. In California, it used to be added anonymously to brighten up wines. It was used more often in Catalonia before the Parker era pushed for more opulent, richer wines which led to Carignan being replaced with more international grapes like Syrah and Cabernet. There’s a similar story in the Languedoc and Chile.
Carignan is a high-yielding grape that does better when the vines are older and in warm climates. Hence, the vines that survived the Carignan purge have given growers the opportunity to have prime Carignan during a time when people are seeking out fresher wines and growers are having to deal with warming temperatures. Thus, we have a rise in varietal Carignan, and it’s starting to make its way back into blends too.
Blending Partners
Typically, Carignan is blended with Grenache/Garnacha, like in Catalonia, the Languedoc-Roussillon and Sardinia. Grenache tends to get ripe and high in alcohol, which can make it too flabby on the palate. Grenache is also light in color. That’s why adding some Carignan can complement it perfectly. Here in Chile, where there’s less Grenache, you’ll also see Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan blends. Again, it helps brighten the darker Syrah and Mourvedre.
Although it’s allowed in Cotes du Rhone GSM (Grenache, Syrah & Mourvedre) blends, it’s usually excluded or only in tiny quantities. However, one village in the Cotes du Rhone tends to have Carignan as a significant part of its blend: Cairanne.
Cairanne has only had its own cru status for 10 years, joining other villages like Gigondas and Vacqueyras. Although the latter crus were seen as bargain alternatives to Chateauneuf du Pape, their prices have also risen. Cairanne provides another cheaper alternative since it’s relatively new to consumers.
Moreover, Cairanne gives you a different style of Southern Rhone reds. It’s generally not going to be as big and ripe as some of the other Southern Rhone GSM blends because it’s in a cooler area. It’s higher up than some areas but also close to the Rhone river. In addition, it has diverse soils. Added to that, it tends to have Carignan as a part of the blend. Hence, its wines are more elegant and brighter. Carignan is allowed to be up to 30% of the blend in Cairanne, but it’s typical around 10-15%. It’s also about 10% of the plantings in the village.
I found a Cairanne GSM + Carignan blend here in Chile to taste as well as a Catalonian blend of Garnacha and Samsó (Carignan) to compare. Both can be found for less than $15. Let’s pop and pour.
Tasting Notes
2024 Torres Sangre de Toro Original Catalunya
This is usually around a 2/3 Grenache 1/3 Carignan blend. The nose shows mild spice and vanilla with bright red fruit. I think they use some American oak. The palate is medium-bodied with medium acid and alcohol, showcasing the red fruit. It’s round. This is quite international styled–not meant to offend anybody–but it’s a little boring. At the same time, it’s not overdone with the alcohol, oak and ripeness. 89
2022 Brotte Creation Grosset Cairanne
I couldn’t find the exact percentages for this vintage, but the 2023 vintage is listed as 60% Grenache, 15% Carignan, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre. Aged only in concrete vats and old, used foudres. The nose opens up nicely with lavender, a touch of garrigue and ripe red fruit. Very floral overall. The palate continues with ripe red fruit with a round texture but medium acidity to keep it fresh. Licorice. Plus intensity overall. The only issue is a bit of heat down the back of the throat with 14.5% alcohol, but otherwise a classic, relatively elegant Rhone. The florals and lighter profile lean towards a Burgundian style of Rhone, and I think the Carignan lets the red fruit dominate more than the dark fruit. 90