After 9 years in Chile, I still feel that Old-Vine Carignan is a category of Chilean wine that doesn’t get the attention it deserves.
What is VIGNO?
I’ve sung the praises of Chilean Carignan before. It’s a variety that thrives in warm Mediterranean climates like here in Chile, Sardinia, the south of France, California and Priorat. It particularly shines with older vines. Since Sangiovese is not a major variety here in Chile, it also serves as my proxy to Italian Sangiovese with its red fruit, acidity, slight rusticity and herbal, spice notes.
In many of the above places, it was more widely planted but replaced for richer, darker international styles and varieties during the Parker era. However, now the trend has returned to fresher reds. Hence, places that hadn’t completely replaced or grafted over their Carignan are re-investing in it as a varietal.
In Chile, a country without the strictest regulations of appellations/varieties, there has been an attempt to preserve and put more value in their precious old-vine Carignan, which is mostly in the Maule Valley. As a result, the VIGNO (Vignadores de Carignan in Maule) consortium was formed in 2010. It literally started as a lunch between Carignan winemakers in 2009 and then started to appear on labels in 2011. Now, there are 16+ wineries who are part of this group: Bodegas Re, J. Bouchon, Carmen, Casas Patronales, De Martino, Lapostolle, Dagaz, Del Pedregal, Garage Wine, Gillmore, Miguel Torres, Morande, Valdivieso, Undurraga, Odfjell, and Escudo Rojo. However, I’ve tasted and seen others not on this current list (according to the VIGNO website). I don’t know if that means they’re no longer part of VIGNO or the site hasn’t been updated.
The rules are essentially that the vines must be from Maule and 30+ years old with dry-farmed old bush head vines (Gobelet). The wine must be at least 85% Carignan with at least 24 months aging of any type before release. For most, this means some type of wood aging but not necessarily much new oak. The style can vary among producers and terroir with some electing for darker, more modern interpretations while others keep the sour, red fruited style.
Prices for VIGNO tend to be more expensive compared to other varieties produced by the same companies, but they’re still mostly under $30 and as low as $10 here in Chile.
I realized that despite how much I like VIGNO, I had only tried half a dozen of the producers making it, some of which might no longer be a part of VIGNO. I’ve been quite partial to the De Martino VIGNO especially. There are of course other Carignan producers who don’t have the VIGNO label, so VIGNO is not the only option out there for Carigan. Anyway, I decided I should explore some more VIGNO by other producers. I picked two that I thought would differ in style for this post.
Tasting Notes
2020 Odfjell VIGNO Carignan Maule
100 year old vines in Cauquenes. 24 months in 500-liter acacia and French oak. 30% new. This is a more modern interpretation with other Chilean Carignan using larger, more neutral oak. Also high in alcohol at 14.5%, but it’s hidden well. Modern is what I’d expect from the producer given my past experiences with their wines. On the nose, you get spice, chocolate, herbs and tobacco more like you’d expect from an oaked Bordeaux blend. However, because of the variety, you get some red fruit along with lots of tangy blackberries. The mid-palate drops off a bit but it’s building with more air. Medium-acid. Medium-bodied. Soft tannins. Decent length. Since I often say Chilean Carignan is like Tuscan Sangiovese, this would be more like a Sangiovese heavy Supertuscan or something from Montalcino with some new oak while other VIGNO Carignan are closer to Chianti/Sangiovese aged in large botti. Odfjell’s modern style is a better gateway to this still yet to be discovered Chilean genre and still satisfying for those who like Italian Sangiovese like me. This was about $19 in Chile. 91
2019 Bodegas Re VIGNO Maule
100% Carignan from 70 year old dry-farmed vines from Viña Roja in Loncomilla. With extensive aging in barrels and more in bottle before release, I think this is the current release. The nose shows ripe red fruit with sweet spices and a bit of vanilla. The palate is red-fruited with sharp acidity (2.99 pH) still but smooth, silky tannins. Medium-bodied. Engulfs the palate. Don’t feel the 15% alcohol. The acid keeps it in check except a bit down the throat. Good length. Compared to the Odfjell, this is a more classic, high-acid Carignan. This was about $18. 92