Is this Piedmont’s top white wine? Is it White Barolo?
Piedmont Whites & Timorasso
Nebbiolo reigns as the top red in Piedmont with Barbera and Dolcetto providing more weeknight appeal. As far as white varieties, it depends on who you ask which is king. There are some well-known whites like Moscato d’Asti, Arneis from Roero and Cortese from Gavi. However, there are also some revived varieties making a comeback like Timorasso and Nascetta. I’ve also had some Piedmont Vermentino, locally called Favorita. Today, I want to focus on Timorasso, which has become many wine geeks’ choice for best white in Piedmont.
40 years ago, Timorasso was on the verge of extinction. Walter Massa of Vigneti Massa revived it and helped other local winegrowers to cultivate it. It’s native to the Colli Tortonesi region, where it must be at least 85% of any wine labeled “Timorosso.” However, the Cortese grape is the most produced white varietal here.
Besides being a geeky, insider, up and coming variety, Timorasso is capable of making fuller whites, doing well with oak aging (although most aren’t), and evolving with more bottle age with its high alcohol, thick skins and high acid structure. That’s why its proponents have dubbed it “White Barolo.”
While it’s young, there’s typically white floral notes, yellow and tropical fruits and minerality. It’s fuller in body and high in acid. However, it can have petrol notes similar to Riesling when it ages. I wasn’t patient enough to cellar it for another 5+ years, so let’s try some young Timorasso.
Tasting Notes
2023 Cascina Penna-Currado Timorasso Derthona
Derthona is the old Roman name for the village of Tortona in the Colli Tortonesi region. Derthona may eventually be its own DOC for making Timorasso. This is from Elena Penna and Luca Currado, who both worked at famous Barolo producer, Vietti, with the latter being a 5th generation Vietti family winemaker.
15 year old vines. Following Walter Massa’s influence in winemaking, the grapes are spontaneously fermented with uncrushed or lightly crushed whole grapes with the skins submerged at cool temperatures in stainless steel. This gives it its structure while also limiting its alcohol. Only partial malolactic. Then it’s aged on lees in ceramic vessels and then in bottle. It reaches the market after about 2 years.
The nose takes time to open up as it warms up but there’s floral, honey and yeasty, toasted almond notes. The palate is medium-bodied, with medium+ acidity and a round, creamy feel (from lees and/or partial malo) but not oily or thick. Ripe yellow apple fruit with a salinic finish. I like the feel, balance and intensity without heaviness on the palate. Only 12.5% alcohol. If the nose continues to improve, I might up the score even more. Reminds me of Chenin to a certain degree. I’ve been impressed with all the Timorassos that I’ve tasted, so perhaps it is “White Barolo.” 92