I tasted several European white wines that have a lot of promise as the next flagship whites for their regions.
Although there are a plethora of white varieties in Europe, they often don’t carry as much notoriety as the reds from their region. As a consequence, some become lost in obscurity.
For example, in the case of Piedmont, Nebbiolo is unequivocally the primary red variety. However, it’s not clear which is the top white wine in Piedmont. Moscato d’Asti and Gavi di Gavi (Cortese) are the two most planted, but Arneis, Nascetta, & Timorasso have undergone recent revivals and are garnering more attention. I tried the latter two to see if they’re worthy candidates to be the top Piedmont white.
The next Italian white, Soave, is a lot more well-known, but it’s still in a fight with Pinot Grigio as Italy’s overall top white. Technically speaking, Glera (Prosecco) is also a candidate if you include sparklings. Anyway, Soave (made mostly from the variety Garganega) might be the best quality of the most popular Italian whites.
The next white wine would probably win best white from its country, but is perhaps worthy of more international attention as a top European white in general. I’m talking about Assyrtiko from Greece, especially from the famous island of Santorini.
Lastly, I tried an atypical Bordeaux Blanc that could be the future of whites in the region due to global warming. Instead of using Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon as the primary grapes, this unique white experiments with other Southwest France whites like Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Gris as the primary varieties.
Tasting Notes
2020 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cetta Nascetta di Novello Langhe
Nascetta was revived in the mid-90’s, and Elvio Cogno is one of the region’s top Nascetta producers and cheerleaders. Fermentation in stainless steel for 70% and in 15 HL Slavonian oak barrels for 30%. 6 months in stainless steel – 30% in 15 HL Slavonian oak barrels for ca. 4 months. Shy but bright, minerally, smoky flinty nose. It opens up to some floral, peachy notes. Palate is medium bodied with some creaminess but good acidity on the back end with a savory, spicy side. White fruit like apple and pear. About 1,000 cases made. Purchased for $30. 91
2018 Bruno Broglia Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi
Timorasso was almost extinct in the 80’s until locals revived it. Derthona is the local name for Tortona, the town of the Colli Tortonesi DOC. Zesty, floral, herbal and savory, minerally nose while the palate is medium-bodied with medium-acid, but both build as I continue to sip. Apple. A bit creamy, so probably lees contact time but winery notes only state 18 months in steel tanks and time in bottle. Some of that savoriness on the back-end. Good length, but I like the aromatics the most. My first time trying Timorasso. This one at least is sort of like a fuller Torrontes to me. It’s a complex wine for about $26. 92
2019 Pieropan Soave Classico
Screw-cap. Made from the traditional varieties of Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) grown in family-owned vineyards situated in the higher elevation Soave Classico zone. Organic wine with some lees-aging to add texture. Bright, citrus minerally nose – medium bodied, fruitier palate than nose, good acidity. Super easy to drink. Soave can be oak aged or unoaked, fruity and fresh, and sort of in between with time on lees but unoaked. This one is sort of in between with a little more body but still a lot of light, freshness. I found it for only $17. 91
2015 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini
Pretty nose of fresh, floral notes with ocean salinity and minerality. Lime zest. The palate is fruity upfront. A touch effervescence with good acidity and a savory, salinic backend. So easy to drink. Dry. Light+ bodied. Sort of reminds me of a more minerally and fruitier Txakoli. Could go with lots of things. I had it with falafel. At 7+ years old, it’s still quite youthful although the color seemed to show some age and based on cellartracker comments, it seems to build extra layers with some age. This was originally $27 when I purchased it in 2017. 92
2019 Le Retout Blanc Vin de France
Differs from most Bordeaux Blanc since it’s 48% Gros Manseng, 40% Sauvignon Gris, 6% Savagnin and 6% Mondeuse Blanche. There’s no typical Sauvignon Blanc or Semillon. Hence, it’s labeled Vin de France and not Bordeaux. These grapes were planted as an experiment of which new varieties to include in Bordeaux to counter global warming, and I think they’ve succeeded. 83% was aged in barriques for 9 months, of which around 16% was new wood. Nose salinic, flinty minerality. Palate has good length and grip of acidity. Medium-light body but building. Manages to be fruity but super fresh too. Like this palate better than the Soave next to it but the nose is a bit shy now. Still an excellent wine now with potential to open up more. 667 cases made. Bought for $27. 92+
Conclusion
All the whites were excellent for $30 or less, so at minimum you should consider these whites as a nice alternative to more expensive European whites like white Burgundy and white Bordeaux.
As far as which is the top Piedmont white, in this case I’m partial to the Timorasso, which I found more unique and complex. The Nascetta was excellent too, but more middle of the road. It might have a broader audience though.
As far as what should be the most popular Italian white overall, this Soave impresses more than Pinot Grigio in the same price range. Perhaps it should be Italy’s top exported white.
The Assyrtiko was both light and refreshing but with complex minerality and ageability. I’d love to see more of this in the market instead of more of the same, typical European whites.
Finally, the Retout gives me hope for the future of Bordeaux whites despite global warming.
Trends and climate can change quickly, so these whites might be what’s hot for the next generation of drinkers. 