I’ve spent some time in the Southwest of France beyond Bordeaux, and there are various local sparklings to explore.
Southwest Sparklings
First of all, let’s define the standard sparklings: Champagne (Traditional) Method and Charmat. To simplify things, Champagne Method goes through secondary fermentation in bottle with more direct lees time (at least 9 months and up to 10+ years) while Charmat does it in stainless steel tanks for 1-3 months. This is why the former is more expensive and gives more autolytic yeasty, bready and pastry notes. Moreover, this is why Prosecco (Charmat method) is cheaper and fruitier compared to Champagne.
A more recent fad, which is actually based on older methods, are Méthode Ancestrale wines. The difference here is that it relies on an initial single fermentation from native yeasts and the wine is bottled in the middle of fermentation, keeping its natural carbonation with no added sugars/yeasts (tirage) to start the secondary fermentation or dosage (sugar/wine) added after the secondary fermentation process like with the Champagne Method. If the whole production from soil to vine to grape to wine match your criteria for a “natural” wine, then Methode Ancestrale can be called a “Pet-Nat” (Pétillant naturel) too.
Hence, Méthode Gaillacoise Ancestrale sparkling is essentially like a Pet-Nat but not necessarily meeting all the criteria to be considered “natural” depending how commercial or natural the producer is. It also can just be called a Methode Ancestrale sparkling, but it’s specifically made with the traditions of the region of Gaillac. This means native yeasts, no sugar added to start secondary fermentation, which is completed in the bottle, and no dosage either like most Methode Ancestrale sparklings. However, essentially the main difference between other Methode Ancestrale is that it’s traditionally made with Mauzac, which is the only permitted grape in the Méthode Gaillacoise Ancestrale and native to Southwest France.
It should also be noted that Methode Ancestrale differs from the other type of sparkling from Gaillac called Perlé, whose secondary bottle fermentation is due to malolactic fermentation rather than alcoholic fermentation as with the ancestral method. Perlé Gaillac sparklings are generally less bubbly and more just spritzy. They can have other white grapes besides Mauzac like Loin de l’Œil and Muscadelle too.
Not far from Gaillac but technically classified as being in the Languedoc-Roussillon region rather than the Southwest region is Limoux, where they make Crémant de Limoux and Blanquette de Limoux, both in the Champagne Method. The latter also features Mauzac (Blanquette is the local name for it) while the former tends to feature Chardonnay or Chenin with less Mauzac.
FYI, there are Crémant de Bordeaux sparklings too. They’re usually made with Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. With Champagne prices going through the roof, these other sparklings from France deserve exploration.
I found a sparkling made in the Méthode Gaillacoise Ancestrale way. Let’s taste.
Tasting Notes
NV Cave de Labastide Esprit de Labastide Brut Blanc de Blanc Gaillac
100% Mauzac. The nose is medium-low intensity with some yeasty notes, herbal notes and some apple. The palate is clean, light and fresh with green apple and pear. Dry. Cidery. OK length. Decent amount of bubbles. Unlike many Pet-Nats these days by natural wine producers, it’s not topped off with a bottle cap. It has the same type of cork, cage and capsule as Champagne or a Champagne Method sparkling. Again, it’s less natty and more commercial, mostly likely in production and in bottle appearance too. Given the $14 price tag (imported), it’s not a bad deal. Also, it’s only 9.5% alcohol, which is a benefit of Pet-Nat/Methode Ancestrale wines. 89