I found two Spanish red varieties that are nice alternatives stylistically to your typical Tempranillo based Spanish red. Let’s explore.
Spain has so much more to offer in terms of red varieties besides Tempranillo and Garnacha. I’d start with Mencia from Galicia or Bierzo. Bobal is also great. Canary Island reds are also fun for their volcanic minerality. Even harder to find outside Spain is Concejón and Carrasquín from Aragon and Asturias, which I’ve written about in a previous post. I’ve explored some rare reds from Catalonia in the past too like Mandó (Garrut), Arcos and Sumoll. This time, I found two other red varieties I’ve never had as a monovarietal wine: Juan García and Espadeiro.
Juan García
Juan García is a red variety native to the steep, terraced canyons of the Duero River in the D.O. of Arribes, which is a western part of Castilla y León at the border with Portugal in northwestern Spain. This is where you can find it as a monovarietal or dominant grape in a blend. Because it’s mixed with other varieties in the vineyard, they allow other varieties in varietal Juan García. In other parts of Spain, it’s used to blend with Tempranillo.
Something else that makes Juan García unique for wine geeks is that it’s a pre-phylloxera grape variety. This means it’s not planted with American rootstock like most other European varieties that needed American rootstock to survive. Given where it’s grown in a more isolated canyon, it resisted disease and pest infestations like phylloxera.
In terms of the style of wine Juan Garcia produces, it’s usually dark purple in color but light to medium bodied and fruity on the palate.
Espadeiro
Even further northwest from Arribes is Rias Baixas in Galicia, which is more well-known for its white Albariño wines. Here you can find the variety, Espadeiro. Like with other grapes in Galicia, it’s also grown in Portugal. Hence, it’s often found in blends. However, there are some varietal versions, which are usually light-bodied, tart and aromatic wines. There are also other different grape varieties that use variations of this name in Portugal.
Espadeiro suffered a different fate due to phylloxera. It used to be one of the dominant red grapes in Rias Baixas before phylloxera, but it wasn’t as isolated and resistant to disease as Juan Garcia. Therefore, it was almost extinct by the 80’s. However, a few producers are trying to revive it.
Tasting Notes
2018 El Hato y el Garabato Arribes Sin Blanca (Castilla y León)
This is the flagship wine of this small, family-run producer. 80+ year old vines. Around 80% Juan García with the rest being miscellaneous reds like Bastardo, Bruñal, Rufete, Tinta Jeromo, Gajo Arroba, Mandón and even white grapes like Doña Blanca. Whole cluster. Foot stomped. Aged in mostly used French oak barrels and a bit of concrete. This is fruity and herbal. Medium-bodied with medium acid and low alcohol. Dark and red fruits. Herbal. Feels like low intervention and native yeasts. Soft tannins. Reminds me of something like Pais from Maule or Itata Chile or Beaujolais Cru. It’s fruity, easy but herbal and natural. 91
2021 Eulogio Pomares Rias Baixas Espadeiro Castineiro
From one of the top producers in Galicia. Really transparent color. Lighter than most Pinots. Very aromatic. Lots of red fruit. Tangy. However, too much volatile acidity for others on the palate and the fruit on the palate seems tired. I like the nose and light, fresh, elegant, low alcohol style. Only 10.5% alcohol. But most couldn’t get around the VA. Although I’m more tolerant of VA than average, it’s still not fair to rate this wine. However, there were many appealing things about the wine despite the VA, so it’s still something to seek out in my opinion but perhaps not age too long. Vinified and matured in concrete. Only 72 cases were made. NR
Conclusion
Both these wines offer a lighter, fresher, less or un-oaked alternative to Tempranillo and most Spanish Garnacha outside of Gredos if you’re looking for something new in Spanish reds. Maybe I’d try this Espadeiro younger next time though.