I’m tasting a classic of Trentino-Alto Adige along with a grape variety that’s far less common there.
Trentino-Alto Adige
Italy as a whole has so much wine tradition and varieties to explore that differ from the French-influenced wine industry in most other parts of the world. One region that I still can’t stop finding something new in is Trentino–Alto Adige.
The larger overall region is Trentino-Alto Adige. Trentino is the southern part and Alto Adige (or Sudtirol in German) is the northern part. It’s a region that I’ve been dying to visit not only for the wine but for its picturesque views of Dolomite Alps.
As a wine geek, I like that it’s a nexus of French, Italian and German wine traditions and varieties. There are Bordeaux varieties, even Carmenere. There are a bunch of white varieties often found in France and/or Germany like Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Sylvaner and Gewurztraminer. There are German and Italian varieties created by human-made crossings like Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, and Manzoni. Then there are unique, local varieties like Nosiola, Teroldego, Schiava and Lagrein. You can also find Moscato based dessert wines. I’ve even run across some Pinot Noir.
Enantio
Something new I recently discovered is the grape variety Enantio. It’s most likely native to and mainly found in southern Trentino in the appellation of Valdadige Terra dei Forti. It’s sometimes used in rosatos or light sparkling wines. Perhaps that’s why it used to be called Lambrusco a Folglia Frastagliata even though nowadays it’s been proven not to be related to Lambrusco.
It’s an ancient grape dating back at least to the 1st Century CE. The Romans said it had healing properties. Nowadays, not much is planted or produced. It was often replaced by the more profitable Pinot Grigio. However, it’s one of the few grapes to have survived phylloxera with its own rootstock, and a few producers continue to produce varietal versions.
Typically it‘s a light, fruity, high acid and spicy wine. I found one to try out.
Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc)
On the other side of the spectrum, Alto Adige’s Pinot Blanc is perhaps its best and highly touted variety, at least among wine geeks. It’s only around 5% of the plantings in Trentino-Alto Adige, but it produces arguably the best expression of this variety compared to Germany or France. I found a Riserva level Pinot Bianco from one of the best producers of white wines in the region, Terlano. Let’s see if they live up to their reputation.
Tasting Notes
2022 Cantina Terlano “Vorberg” Pinot Bianco Riserva Alto Adige
The nose is floral and cítric with a touch of lees. The palate had electric acidity and tension. White peach. Lots of minerality and salinity. Clean. Balanced by a creamy, medium-bodied feel. Nothing overdone. Easy to drink now, but everyone says this should age well and get better in 5-7 years. Aged 12 months in large barrels, so the oak is not really a part of the flavor profile but it obviously helped give its texture. To me, this lives up to the hype. 93+
2020 Roeno Enantio Red Point Valdadige Terra dei Forti Trentino-Alto Adige
100% Enantio. Destemmed. Stainless steel fermentation. Aged 10 months in French oak tonneaux. The color is dark, almost opaque. The nose shows dark fruit with oak spice which carries on to the palate. There’s blueberry, plum, blackberry and coffee. Somewhat peppery. Medium-bodied with medium tannins and low acidity. It’s round. Medium alcohol. Mid-palate is lacking and the fruit is not the most expressive. I also thought there would be more acidity given the region and descriptions of the variety. It’s sort of like a blend of Merlot and Syrah but its fruit is subdued. Eventually more of the fruit comes out, but for now it’s an 87. Overall, I was disappointed. Maybe it’s past its prime.