Wine Review: The Rheingau in Chile

What happens when you mix over 200 years of winemaking tradition in the Rheingau, Germany with Chilean terroir?  Let’s learn about Baron Knyphausen.

Baron Knyphausen

The estate vineyard, Draiser Hof, in the Rheingau wine region has been documented since the 12th century. Hence, it’s one of the oldest estates in the Rheingau. However, the Knyphausen family has owned it since 1818. 

Fun fact: The family is also connected to the upcoming 250th anniversary of the USA. Way before the family even purchased the estate vineyards, Wilhelm von Knyphausen was a lieutenant general for Hessian mercenary forces on the side of the British in the American Revolutionary War. However, It was Prussian (another group of Germans) and French support that turned the tide for the Continental Army. 

Back to Baron Knyphausen, it is one of the most unique producers in Germany. Now run by the 8th generation of Knyphausens, the modern estate is not afraid to experiment. For example, they’re one of the few Riesling producers to use wood barrels for vinification and aging. 

In addition to organic practices and being certified Fair’n Green, they’re also one of the first to start a line of white wines made from traditional field-blend plantings and co-fermenting called Historischer Rebensatz. These field blends may include Riesling, Savagnin Blanc, Elbling, Orleans, Silvaner, Roter Veltliner and Grunfrankisch

Of course, they have a mix of typical styles and quality of Riesling such as Sekt, Trocken, Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, etc. They also produce some Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir). 

However, they also are one of the few to make Roter Riesling, a rare mutation of Riesling. There are only around 13 ha planted in the world. It is a pink skinned Riesling essentially, which means it’s similar to Riesling but sometimes a little heavier and less prone to botrytis. That’s why I had to buy a bottle of their Beerenauslese Roter Riesling to lay down, but I also got one of their regular Roter Rieslings to taste for the blog. 

Baron Knyphausen in Chile

Although there have been a lot of winemakers/wineries from all over the world coming to make wine in Chile, and there are Chileans with German ancestry making wines, this is the only German producer that I know of to come make wine in Chile. 

I first tried their wines at some German wine tastings. German wines are not that easy to procure in Chile, so Baron Knyphausen is the first place to look for affordable German imports. I also had the pleasure of meeting Edzard zu Knyphausen, who has been running Baron Knyphausen in Chile for over 20 years, at a friend’s tasting. That’s how I tried their Chilean wines for the first time.

Their less than 2 ha estate is located in Llay Llay in the Aconcangua Valley just off highway 5. They are open for visits where you can have lunch and taste both their Chilean and German wines. Be aware that they are closed on Sundays like all the wineries in the Aconcagua Valley. 

In Chile, they produce two main reds: a Carmenere and Carmenere/Syrah blend. Below are some tasting notes I have from some of their German wines and one of their Chilean wines drunk this year.

Tasting Notes

2024 Baron Knyphausen Riesling 1818 Rheingau Feinherb 

Screw-top. The nose is fruity, floral, and grapefruity. There’s an herbal note too. The palate has similar but simpler upfront fruit, roundness, a medium-body and balancing acidity. Medium-length. It’s off-dry but at 10.5% alcohol and the high acidity to tone it down, I’ve had dry wines that have tasted sweeter. It’s an easy and versatile wine to zest up many dishes like spicy Asian food. 89 

2022 Baron Knyphausen Riesling Kabinett “Charta“ Gran Reserva Rheingau 

Screwtop. The color is perhaps slightly darker than normal. There’s grapefruit, floral and peachy, fruity notes with a bit of spice. There’s more body to this than the average German Riesling. It’s slightly oily. There’s a bit of tannin. Still high in acid, but it’s softened by its rounder feel. Dry. Being labeled “Charta” means there are certain quality standards they have to follow such as yield, at least 18 months after harvest before release and passing a blind tasting among other Charta members. Baron Knyphausen is one of the few German Riesling producers to use wooden barrels for aging; At most, large neutral oak casks are used. I believe this is a mix of wooden barrels of various sizes and stainless steel and perhaps the wood influence is most felt in the texture than the flavor of the wine, so probably not much if any of new oak. Perhaps it’s not a bad gateway for Chardonnay drinkers to German Riesling since it’s dry and bigger but it’s still very Riesling. From what I’ve read, they’ve definitely used new oak in some of their wines and have even tried fermenting in new oak, but as I said, it’s not clear with this cuvee how much oak is used. 91

2022 Baron Knyphausen Roter Riesling Rheingau 

Screwcap. Tasted after the Baron Knyphausen Charta of the same vintage. Similar color. The nose is less expressive and flinty, mineral driven with some honey. The palate is more residual sugar that almost puts it in the off-dry category for me, but there’s still plenty of acidity to mitigate that. 11% alcohol. Not sure how I can distinguish this from regular Riesling. There’s a little more body than an average Riesling, but actually less than the Charta which sees some wood aging, so perhaps the Charta wasn’t the best standard Riesling to compare this Roter Riesling to. Ultimately, the Charta was more vibrant and expressive. 89 

2020 Baron Knyphausen Las Venteras de Llay Llay Santa Teresa Carmenere-Syrah Gran Reserva Aconcagua 

Quite mainstream Carmenere in style with mostly dark, ripe fruit but the pyrazines are subtle and there’s good acidity and minerality added to it. Medium-bodied with soft tannins. Some oak spice, but not prominent. 91 

Pictured but not tasted yet: 2011 Baron Knyphausen Roter Riesling Beerenauslese Rheingau 

This was the first and only Beerenauslese made from Roter Riesling according to Baron Knyphausen. I’m saving it for a special occasion. 

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