Everyone knows that Pinot Noir is Oregon’s flagship grape variety. However, the state’s top white variety is quickly becoming Chardonnay.
Oregon’s top planted white variety is still Pinot Gris, but Chardonnay is nipping at its heels as the third most planted variety in the state. In roughly a decade, planted acreage of Chardonnay has increased almost 200%.
Increasing Chardonnay production in areas that are also good for Pinot Noir makes sense given how many producers around the world are trying to mimic Burgundy. Moreover, Chardonnay producers are moving towards less-oaked, fresher Chardonnays that mimic the Cote d’Or or Chablis because that’s the style that’s trendy, and they hope to cash in on making less expensive White Burgundy proxies. Compared to Pinot Gris in Oregon, they can charge more for their Chardonnay while charging less than Burgundy of similar quality.
I imagine Oregon Chardonnay will take over Pinot Gris for most planted and produced white in the state if it already hasn’t. Oregon Chardonnay is already easier to find than Oregon Pinot Gris in wine shops today, and it’s getting more rave reviews from critics as well. Some Oregon Chardonnay have beat out Burgundian Chardonnay in blind tastings too.
I decided to pick up a bottle of Oregon Chardonnay while I was in the US to experience it for the blog.
Tasting Notes
2023 Project M Anicca Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay
20% new oak. 10 months on lees. Nose is a little shy but displays a mix of floral and citrus with a bit of spice and leesy notes. The palate is medium-bodied with medium acidity with similar notes but more fruit. However, I wanted more on the midpalate. I like the overall balance (not an oaky, buttery or overripe and alcoholic wine) although as usual, a little more acidity would be my preference too. It could still open up more so with its balance, the ceiling might be a few points higher. 88 for now. On the second day, there’s a step up in freshness and overall expression especially on the palate, so I’ll bump up the rating to 90. Served it slightly colder too the second time around. This was on sale for only $15. The winemaker for Project M used to head Roederer’s sparkling wine project in California’s Anderson Valley but started his career in Oregon.