Tuscany is the benchmark region for Sangiovese, but there are other regions in Italy that make good Sangiovese. Let’s compare Montefalco Rosso from Umbria to Tuscan Sangiovese.
Montefalco Rosso
Umbria is better known for their white wines like from Orvieto, but they also make some compelling reds. If you like big, dark, tannic wines, there’s Umbria’s native grape, Sagrantino from Montefalco, so look for Sagrantino di Montefalco labels if you want Italy’s most tannic wine.
However, the most planted grape is actually Sangiovese. Hence, if you pick a bottle labeled Montefalco Rosso, it must be at least 60-80% Sangiovese. 10-25% is Sagrantino and up to 30% can be other non-aromatic grapes grown in the region. This could include some international varieties like Merlot or Cabernet. Riserva level Montefalco Rosso must age at least 30 months, with at least 1 year in barrel. Like Tuscany, producers tend to use mostly used oak of different sizes such as large Slavonian botti.
Although there are some expensive Montefalco Rosso, it’s still a relative bargain compared to prices of similar level Tuscan Sangiovese. However, Montefalco Rosso is not as easy to find. When I found one, I decided to compare it to a Brunello di Montalcino I had laying around.
Tasting Notes
2021 Bocale Montefalco Rosso Umbria
I bought this for $22. Sangiovese (70%) with Sagrantino, Merlot and Colorino. 12 months in barrel. Tobacco, lots of Mediterranean herbs on the nose. Ripe red and dark fruit up front. Lots of acid and tannins on the backend. Needs meat or a rich, red sauced pasta at the moment. Otherwise, I’d age it 3-5 more years. Darker profile than classic Tuscan Sangiovese but there are certainly ones in Tuscany that have this riper, darker profile but it still keeps its classic Italian acidity. 91+
2015 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello Tuscany
Current vintages can be found for as little as $50 in the US. 100% Sangiovese. Aged 24 months in Slavonian Oak barrels. Still big, ripe but the nose is more evolved with dried fruit, herbs, and tobacco. But the palate has ripe fruit and tannins. But the tannins are fine with food. Medium+ acidity with a full body. Purple and red fruits. Not as dark or big as the Montefalco Rosso, but that was also younger than this Brunello. Second day, more Mediterranean herbs. Smoother but still slightly tannic on the back end without food. 92
Conclusion
This wasn’t a perfect comparison because the Brunello was 6 years older, but for this comparison I found the Montefalco Rosso to be darker and more tannic. Again, some of that has to do with the age, but also the addition of the tannic Sagrantino and dark fruited Merlot. However, the acidity and other aspects of the flavor profile were similar although the Brunello of course had more evolved fruit notes. The Brunello also had a slightly fuller body. I give a slight edge to the Brunello now, but the Montefalco Rosso could be just as good with a little more age and is the better deal at less than half the price. I wouldn’t hesitate to pick up a Montefalco Rosso instead of a Tuscan Sangiovese especially if there’s such a big difference in price although there are some equally priced Chianti Classico that give me more of that bright red fruit profile and slight rusticity that quenches my Italian wine and food pairing cravings more. Instead, Montefalco Rosso seems like a better, cheaper proxy for richer styled Sangiovese like Brunello di Montalcino or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.