This rare white variety from Vienna, Austria is produced as a monovarietal wine by only one winery in the world. Let’s explore Orangetraube.
Orangetraube
Orangetraube wild vines were discovered in Germany and officially designated as a variety in 1840. However, nowadays it’s almost only found in Vienna, Austria with one major producer, Zahel, exporting it as a monovarietal.
Zahel has been cultivating Orangetraube since the 30’s, but the variety has only been isolated in a single vineyard since the 60’s. Elsewhere and historically, it’s been part of fieldblend and not a varietal wine.
The vines are located within the city limits of Vienna, which is known for its white blends: Wiener Gemischter Satz. The major white varieties, which are 80% of its production, are Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder, and Chardonnay with Pinot Noir and Zweigelt as the main reds.
They say it’s related to the Traminer family of grape varieties. It’s also one of the parents of the variety Goldburger, which was crossed with Welchriesling.
Despite its name, Orangetraube is not necessarily an orange (skin-contact) wine although this wine does see a little skin contact. It’s considered a low-acid and aromatic variety with floral and apricot notes. However, Zahel matures it only in stainless steel so it stays light and fresh.
This is my first wine from Vienna and first time trying Orangetraube.
Tasting Notes
2022 Weingut Zahel Original Eigenbau Orangetraube Wien Austria
Biodynamic. Screw cap. 100% Orangetraube. Because it’s not an allowed variety in the DAC (Austria’s district quality control), I’ve seen different labels of this that say “OrangeT” instead of “Orangetraube.” I think more recent vintages say OrangeT. Sandstone and limestone soil. 36 hour skin contact although I see other vintages saying only 8 hours skin contact. Native yeasts. No oak. 6 months in stainless steel on lees.
Reductive at first. Fruit and floral notes emerge on the nose after the reduction goes away. Lots of fruit up front. Apricot and peach. A little leafy and savory on the back end (perhaps the bit of skin contact). Good acidity, but not high acid. Some leesy cheesy notes. It really opens up after it warms up. More of the same notes but more expressive, more zip and intensity without the reduction. Ultimately a fresh fruit driven wine upfront with a savory, cheesy leesy back end. Maybe I’m overrating for its exoticism, but I like it. 92