Do you prefer aged Chateauneuf or young Chateauneuf?
Châteauneuf du Pape
The Cotes du Rhone, with the appellation of Chateauneuf du Pape producing the Southern Rhone’s most iconic wines, is a great gateway into French wines. Because they are mostly Grenache-based with some Syrah, Mourvedre (GSM blends) and possibly a tiny bit of several other varieties, you can get plenty of ripe fruit and soft tannins mixed in with the local Provencal herbs and the meatier, spicier, animal notes of Syrah and Mourvedre. Basically, you get the high alcohol, ripe fruit you get from modern Californian or Australian wines, but also the savory notes from the other varieties and terroir that France is known for.
Châteauneuf du Pape (CDP) has become the epitome of this style, and it was highly influenced by Robert Parker’s full-throttle, modern palate as it was making a comeback on to the world stage. Since then, its prices have steadily risen. Its bottles are easily recognizable since they’re typically embossed with symbols of the Pope above the label. Yet, it still doesn’t get as much attention as Bordeaux, so there’s generally a lower ceiling in terms of pricing even if the floor on the price is higher. However, there are plenty of cheaper CDP proxies from the Southern Rhone such as wines labeled Cotes du Rhone, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Cairanne, Rasteau, etc. On the other end of the spectrum you have Chateau Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape, which can cost you $1,000+ per bottle.
When to drink it?
I have always enjoyed CDP’s young because they aren’t as tannic as Bordeaux and I’m buying them for their explosive, yummy, primary fruit. Moreover, there are already plenty of savory notes at a young age that add complexity, so I don’t have to wait for tertiary notes to come. Likewise, they’re often aged in used, larger and/or neutral oak. Therefore, I don’t have to wait for the oak to integrate like with Bordeaux. Why wait then?
I’ve drunk CDP’s around 10-12 years of age, and they were good but more subdued. Hence, I guess it depends on what you’re in the mood for and the pairing. Do you want the big fruit or more restraint and elegance? It also depends on the producer. Some have larger amounts of Mourvedre and Syrah, which have more structure. Some don’t destem, which adds more spice and tannins. Some don’t push the ripeness as much and have more acidity. Like with all wines, how long you age it really depends on many factors.
Some producers have a reputation for making wines that age a long time and get better. One such producer is Pegau, whom I’ve had young and at 10+ years old. They don’t destem. They use large neutral wood vessels. They usually blend in a decent percentage of Syrah, Mourvedre and the other 18 allowed varieties. It’s also a CDP that allows a bit of funkiness in their wines, which I love. I already know I like Pegau young, but I decided to open one up at 16+ years old to see how it’s developing.
Tasting Notes
2009 Pegau Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve
Aged in a wine fridge since released. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre and the rest is the other authorized varieties. Whole bunch fermentation in cement. Aged around 24 months in old foudre. Earthy, herbal nose. Still lots of fruit and acidity. Still tannic without food. Licorice. Still powerful. Tamed alcohol. A tiny bit of bret that put off others but just the right amount for me or perhaps I’d like even more. On the second day the acid calms down some but it’s more Syrah like with darker, meaty notes. More spice. Garrigue. Still tannic. 93+ I left some and came back after a week long trip and it held up OK. Mostly tertiary but still tannic and alive. I definitely think it can age and evolve for another 5 years easily. It still has the big fruit character you want from young CDP even at this age and it’s only after several days did the tertiary notes come.