White wines are trending around the world even in places more known for reds like Rioja and the Rhone. Let’s explore a few White Riojas.
White Rioja
Whites are only less than 10% of the grapes planted in Rioja. From 2018 data I could find, the percentage of varieties among whites is: Viura (Macabeo): 69.17%, Malvasia: 2.22%, Garnacha blanca: 3.61%, Tempranillo blanco: 12.48%, Maturana blanca: 0.58%, Verdejo: 5.44%, Turruntés: 0.08%, Chardonnay: 2.49%, Sauvignon Blanc: 3.31% and others: 0.61%. Still, the total number had almost doubled in less than a decade before these numbers were taken and the number has probably been increasing since as people are looking for more refreshing wines as global warming continues.
However, White Rioja was traditionally made in an oxidative style with long aging in used, neutral American oak. This style can age in the cellar a long time as well. The iconic Lopez de Heredia is the most famous producer of this style with their $500+ Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia aging for 10 years in American oak. I’ve only had their Reserva and Crianza level whites, but they were amazing and complex too.
More modern white Riojas like their red counterparts also go through oak aging but with more new oak, smaller barrels and possibly French oak. They’re fuller, creamier, more structured whites with more fruit and oak flavors. Viura is usually the dominant grape, often blended with Grenache Blanc and Malvasia.
By the way, the same categories of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva apply to the whites like the reds, but the aging requirements are different. White Crianza requires 1 year of aging, Reserva 2 years and Gran Reserva 4 years in barrel and bottle combined with at least 6 months in barrel for all 3 levels. That’s basically one less year total aging than the reds of the same categories.
Finally, some Rioja producers are making less oaked or unoaked versions, following the fresh and approachable early preferences of consumers today. A few are even starting to feature other varieties like Maturana Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco. I found examples of each along with a White Rioja with a more typical, modern Viura blend and oak aging. Let’s taste.
Tasting Notes
2022 Juan Carlos Sancha “AD LIBITUM” Maturana Blanca Rioja
Maturana Blanca is the oldest variety known in Rioja, with records dating back to 1622. Hence, it’s considered an indigenous grape. Only a few producers feature it as the main grape given it’s less than 1% of the plantings. There’s a Maturana Tinta (red variety) from Rioja too.
Alcohol seemed somewhat elevated, but it says 13%. Apparently, it’s a grape that get high in alcohol. Medium-light bodied. Some oak spice. Medium+ acid. Most people guessed Chardonnay, perhaps from the New World because of the alcohol. Round. Somewhat creamy. Peachy fruit. Fermented and aged only 3 months in 500 liter barrels. 91
2023 Juan Carlos Sancha “AD LIBITUM” Tempranillo Blanco Rioja (Not pictured)
One of the first to produce this as a varietal, they’ve been making Tempranillo Blanco for around 2 decades now. It’s a mutation of red Tempranillo. Fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel and aged on lees for 7 months.
On the nose, it’s rather leesy with autolytic notes and then ripe stone fruit and floral notes. The palate is medium-bodied, fairly round with similar notes but also a touch spicy despite no oak here. Medium+ acidity. Easy to drink but could go with something a bit heavier too like pork chops rather than raw fish. There’s enough body here. Still young and drunk a bit too cold, so maybe there’s more to come. 90
2022 Valenciso Fermentado en Barrica Rioja Blanco
Their estate is in Rioja Alta. Organic farming. 70% Viura, 30% White Grenache fermented with native yeasts separately in French oak barrels and then blended and aged 8 months. There’s herbs and spice on the nose with white fruit and slight floral and citrus notes. Creamy. Medium+ body. Medium alcohol. Medium-low acid but with still just enough freshness. Lots of vanilla. The palate has plus intensity. Something to have with white meat or richer sauced fish dishes. 91
Conclusion
White Rioja is an interesting, new emerging category of wines. Although I do like fresh, unoaked whites, I like that White Rioja doesn’t shy away from oak aging. Its whites should match their reds in style, but they might need some lighter, less oaked versions to get people in the door, and their oaked versions should show more restraint in terms of alcohol and oak compared to the white styles of the 90’s and 2000’s. All of these three were well-balanced even though they differed stylistically and in terms of varieties.