Here are a few basic tips for amateur wine enthusiasts visiting Bordeaux and a recap of my recent trip there. Highlights include La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion, Sauternes, Carbonnieux and a vertical of Branaire-Ducru.
Wine Travel 101
I just got back from our annual family vacation in France. It’s one of the perks of marrying a French woman–we tour the country visiting friends and family. Hanging out with locals is always the best way to travel whether it’s for France, wine tourism or any type of travel anywhere. In a nutshell, interacting with locals is a more meaningful way to travel that helps build long lasting understanding, relationships, international peace and memories in the places you visit.
In terms of wine tourism, eating and drinking with locals gives you a more authentic experience of the history, culture, people and terroir that go into the making of the wines you love or will grow to love by experiencing it for the first time in its region. In turn, it will help transport you back to the region and give you a rush of memories every time you taste a wine from that region. Hence, every bottle you open at home is an international voyage back in time.
If you don’t know any locals, there are various ways to meet some online before you travel. There are tons of social media groups for all types of hobbies such as wine, so joining a Facebook group like #winelover might be a way to befriend local wine lovers globally. Furthermore, you can take the time to meet and interact with locals while traveling. Even just getting to know your tour guide makes things more meaningful rather than being purely a business transaction.
Bordeaux 101
My first time in Bordeaux (and France) in 2001 was what got me into wine, and I never went to any formal tastings or visits to vineyards. It was about the entire experience with the family and friends of my then future wife, so I got to know Bordeaux/France from the inside.
One reason Bordeaux resonated with me is that Bordeaux is one of the easier Old World wine regions to understand and start your wine lover journey because the primary varieties they use are the standard varieties for a majority of the rest of wine regions of the world. Being from Northern California, it was an easy transition from the Napa wines I vaguely knew.
In addition, they produce a ton and can be found everywhere at a wide range of prices, quality and style. Although it’s known for its classy reds, there are top notch white and sweet wines as well. There are Bordeaux that can be appreciated young at way lower prices than say Napa or Burgundy, but there are affordable wines that can age decades too, not to mention its world famous, luxury labels like Latour, Margaux, Haut Brion, etc.
The ability to drink Bordeaux young and to age it is also what entices collectors like me since it gains both value and quality over time. Given each vintage has its own character, it’s a perfect wine to help mark moments in your life such as anniversaries and birthdays.
View from Cafe du Port of the Pont de Pierre Bridge connecting the Left Bank and Right Bank of the Garonne river.
Although I could keep writing a lot more about Bordeaux, there are already a plethora of free resources online since it is the world’s most famous wine region. As always, I would start with Jeff Leve’s Wine Cellar Insider to learn just about everything Bordeaux related, including travel in the region.
For this post, I just wanted to highlight some of the important things that I considered while planning this last trip. Moreover, this post is about Bordeaux travel on the well-beaten path. I will have other upcoming posts about experiences off-the-beaten-path in Bordeaux and other Southwest French wine regions.
Planning the Trip
Unlike my last trip to France, I had a 2 day window to plan more formal wine tourism activities around Bordeaux. Here are some things I considered:
Accommodations
Depending on where you’re staying and mode of transport, you can expect to fit in about 3-4 visits maximum per day. If you’re staying in the city of Bordeaux, you can probably do more in the Pessac and Graves regions than in the Medoc or the Right Bank because it’ll take you at least 45 minutes (probably more with traffic) to get to the Medoc or Right Bank while Pessac is in the southwest outskirts of the city of Bordeaux. Hence, you can easily get a hotel within walking distance to some of the city wineries in Pessac, and get a headstart on visiting the wineries further south in Graves by car rather than staying in the city center. There are also reliable trams and buses that can take you to the city center for when you do want to check it out. That’s what we did this time.
Another option could be to stay at the chateaux themselves. Some of the wineries, like Smith Haut-Lafitte, offer accommodations and restaurants, but expect to pay more.
Transport/Tours
There are certainly companies that can organize the transport and/or book the winery visits, but we already had our own transport and I had specific producers I wanted to visit, which might be more limited through a company. Public transport is possible too, but there’s less flexibility than if you drive. Of course if you drive, you have to learn to spit while tasting and that’s certainly more expected given the vibe of Bordeaux as opposed to other wine visits I’ve done, where there are a lot of tipsy tourists filing in and out. Bordeaux, more than any region I’ve visited, has a more business-like vibe to it. That being said, the tours (both organized day tours and the individual chateau visits) are generally catered for beginners, so you can swallow if you want.
Choosing which Chateaux to Visit
There are several ways to go about this. Are you a Bordeaux nerd? Then consider booking visits at your favorite chateaux so you can fall in love even more with your favorite wine by breathing in the terroir and intimately knowing the winemaking process that goes into it. You might also consider discovering new producers you haven’t tried before. Is there a label critics are gushing about but you’ve never tried?
If you’re not necessarily a huge Bordeaux geek or wine enthusiast, then maybe the ambience and beauty of the grounds are more important to you. Check out the photos of the property first and try to find wineries with other activities like restaurants/picnics on the grounds. Some chateaux have a lot of history, from Roman ruins to connections with famous French royalty which adds to the romanticism. Saint-Emilion is a UNESCO site worth visiting even if you abstain from alcohol (see more below).
You also have to consider your money, time and transport. Therefore, if you have limited time and means, you might focus on a sub-region. If you like Cabernet, then focus on the Medoc. If you prefer Merlot, then focus on the Right Bank. If you like whites and sweet wines too, then focus on Graves. The reds of Pessac-Leognan also give you an idea of the overall style of Bordeaux and any given vintage since there’s a more equal balance of Cabernet and Merlot in the blends.
If you typically have a smaller budget for wines, I still say this is a time to splurge, especially if you don’t travel often. Carpe diem!!! This might be the time to visit one of the more expensive chateaux to see what all the fuss is about. The visit and tasting will still be cheaper than buying the bottle, and now you’ll know if you really think it’s worth it.
If you are a big wine geek and want to taste as many wines as possible, you might consider finding wineries that just offer tastings without the tour. Although the region as a whole has adopted many improvements in winemaking methods and the whole region is making better wine than ever, the winemaking for most producers is pretty standard. You may get tired of the same spiel in every tour catered for those with no wine knowledge.
However, if you want to only taste wines, there are wine shops and events (locally and internationally) that offer tastings. For example, the Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux (UGCB) offers tastings all over the world. Therefore, take advantage of soaking in the ambiance and don’t be afraid to ask geekier questions to the tour guide if the information seems too basic for you. Plus, a benefit of showing your wine knowledge during the visits and tastings is that it may provoke them to bring out back vintage or barrel tasting wines outside of their main tasting flight because they know you’ll appreciate it more. This has happened to me on several occasions, not only in Bordeaux.
Booking Tastings/Visits
First of all, unlike many American wineries (pre-pandemic) that have tasting rooms open all week for drop-in visitors, most Bordeaux wineries require an appointment for tastings/visits. On the positive side, there are still a lot of producers that offer free tastings or at less than 20 euros, which is harder to find in the US or even Chile nowadays.
However, a lot more Bordeaux producers are now closed to the public, no longer free or charging a lot more than I remember 10+ years ago. For example, First Growth Chateau Margaux used to be free with a free tasting. Now they still give you free tours but without a tasting unless you’re a professional. Other big-name labels like Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Latour, Lafite & Mouton Rothschild haven’t offered anything for decades unless you’re a wine professional. Haut Brion is the only First Growth that still offers free tours and tastings, but you still have to score an appointment.*
Getting an appointment isn’t always easy for some producers whether they generally accept visitors or only professionals. For some, it’s not clearly mentioned on their website. You just have to contact them to find out. It’s also not clear what each producer considers “professional” when they say visits are limited to professionals. Does that mean a buyer for a wine shop, a sommelier for a restaurant, a wine journalist, or a wine blogger/influencer? If your wine shop imports a lot of Bordeaux, then perhaps they might be able to help you get an appointment. Any other connections to the wine business and being a wine enthusiast should be mentioned when you request a visit. If you have tasted their wines and/or have any in your collection, you should mention it too. You also have to be aware of when you visit Bordeaux, since many close for vacation in late July and August.
That being said, there are still some big name producers that offer visits/tastings with appointments. Some are free and some cost up to 50+ euros these days. Of the big names, I know Cos d’Estournel, Calon-Segur, Pontet Canet, Pichon Baron, Lynch-Bages, Leoville Poyferre, Leoville Barton, Palmer (although temporarily closed for renovation), Rauzan-Segla, La Mission Haut Brion, Pape Clement, Haut Bailly, Smith Haut-Lafite, Domaine de Chevalier, d’Yquem, Figeac, Troplong Mondot and La Gaffeliere are all open to visits/tastings. There are also a lot of great producers still yet to be discovered if you do a little research.
*At the time of writing this, Haut Brion is temporarily closed for renovations.
Our Trip Highlights & Tasting Notes
Saint-Emilion
We started our Bordeaux trip in Saint-Emilion, which is a stunning little village in its own right. It’ll take you only 30 minutes to walk through the whole village, but you can spend all day taking tours of specific sites like the 12th century monolithic church or where they make the only sparkling Saint-Emilion. Foodies might be interested to know that the first macarons were invented here by nuns in the early 17th century although they were much simpler looking but equally yummy as they are today. You can still buy some made from the old recipe. Plus, there are restaurants and places to picnic to take in the views with the local wine.
Although there are cheaper wine shops throughout the region, and the prices for en primeur (presale) and newly released Bordeaux are often better in the US, UK and other big markets that import a lot of Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion is a good place to shop for wines. It’s lined with tempting wine shops everywhere you go. Prices, especially for older wines, are pretty comparable to what you find in big markets. Some offer free tastings to help you find what to buy. For example, while I was shopping for some older wines at the Marchand de Soif, they casually handed me a sip of 2001 Lynch Bages (~$185) while I was browsing. I should also add that many chateaux are not focused on direct sales and membership like in the US, so you have to buy their wine at a store. I ended up buying a few older wines to do a mini-vertical tasting of Branaire-Ducru St. Julien (see tasting notes below) since we weren’t able to visit any Medoc chateaux this time.
Château La Gaffelière
Many of the best Saint-Emilion producers are just outside the village, so we decided to visit the closest one to the south entrance into the city: La Gaffeliere, Premier Grand Cru Classe B. It’s just a 10 minute walk from the village. Most of the Saint-Emilion wineries that are open for visits can be found and booked here, which will save you time from looking up each individual chateau. The La Gaffeliere visit was only 20 euros despite its top 20 classification and history.
La Gaffeliere was built over ancient Roman ruins and vineyards. It’s one of the oldest family run estates in the region with roots here dating back to the 15th century. The name actually means leper colony in old French, so that was probably one of its historical uses through the years. It is located next to three other Saint-Emilion giants: Ausone, Pavie and Belair-Monange. Some of their best vines are 90 year old Merlot vines. The Grand Vin spends 14 months in barrel. The balance of new oak and used oak is roughly 50/50 depending on the vintage. They produce about 4,000 cases of the Grand Vin per year. One last tidbit is that they make a tiny production of Chardonnay, which is rare for the region. It costs more than 200 euros and is available for purchase at the winery. 
Tasting Notes
2022 Chateau Chapelle d’Aliénor Bordeaux
85 Semillon, 15 Muscadelle 50/50 amphora and stainless steel- fresh floral nose with peach, honey wax, and something savory -medium bodied palate, medium acid. A little lacking on the midpalate, but there’s a bit of tannins and chalkiness. 90
2017 Clos la Gaffeliere
85/15 Merlot/Cab Franc; 12 months in barrel; 20% new. produced on a different property: nose is singing right now with ripe but bright minerally dark fruit with a bit of oak spice and cedar. Quite smooth right now, tannins are tender but should soften up more. Still primary with a touch of spice. Good acidity on the back end. Medium acid overall. A little less expressive than the nose. 93
2016 La Gaffeliere
70/30 Merlot/Cabernet Franc – darker fruit than the previous, a little dry fruit (from age or air -opened yesterday but seems older than just 1 year older than the 2017 Clos-in the end my conclusion is it’s more on the secondary notes than the first and obviously it sees more oak), more oak notes, touch floral – on the palate there’s some chocolate, licorice, more body, more tannins but not harsh at all. Less fruit and less acid at this point than the 2017. 92+ Still too young. Want more fruit to come back. Dormant stage? I find many 2016s are more secondary note driven and closed at this stage. Richer style of course, but the 2017 Clos la Gaffeliere is more expressive today while this 2016 needs at least a few more years to open up again.
Graves
We stayed in Merignac near the airport but also near the wineries of Pessac. A couple of my visits here will be talked about in the next post about unique Bordeaux wineries, but I was able to fit in two other more classic destinations.
Chateau Carbonnieux
The pecan tree Jefferson planted in the 18th century
I chose Chateau Carbonnieux for several reasons. First of all, it’s one of the few wineries that allows drop-in visits (for tastings only). If you’re willing to start early, they open at 8:30, so you can fit this in before your first appointment in Graves. Secondly, it’s a winery I’ve never tried before, but it’s especially known for its whites. Lastly, this winery has a connection with Thomas Jefferson, who listed it as one of his favorite wineries and planted a pecan tree on the property around 236 years ago. Sadly, the tree partially collapsed due to weather conditions in 2022, but now a new one has been planted by the US embassy nearby on the property. As a former US history teacher who lived in Washington DC and tasted Virginia wines, it certainly piqued my interest.
Tasting Notes
2021 Carbonnieux Blanc 65 SB/35 Semillon 10 months fut de Chene – nose plenty of acidity and citrus, a little spice. A little floral. Round, medium palate but weightless feel. With some savory notes on the palate and nose and a touch of herbal side but faint. More minerality than Chilean SB. 10-15% new oak. 93+ Their whites are known for aging. According to legend, Benedictine monks used to call this “l’eau de Carbonnieux,” selling it to the sultan of Constantinople.
2019 Carbonnieux Rouge; 14 months oak, 30% new; 50 Cs 40 Melot, 5 CF, 5 PV – pyrazine notes, on the nose and palate. Young and tannic at the moment. Medium-low acid. Dark fruit. Some licorice. Chalky tannins. A little spice and chocolate from the oak on the palate and nose. Warm but not hot from the alcohol. Still tight. Has a good future though. 90+
2015 Carbonnieux Rouge 60 CS, 35 Merlot 5 PV – already a lot softer, silky but tannins still present. More merlot showing than the 2019 with more oak notes showing too. Chocolate. Richer fruit and flavor while the 2019 was still austere and wound up. Bit of tobacco component too. Also medium-low acid. 92+ Still feel this can soften up in terms of the tannins and obviously develop more for those who prefer tertiary notes and more fruit that should come back. But here secondary notes dominate.
Sauternes
At Maison du Sauternes
I was only 10 minutes away at another appointment in the Graves, so I was able to make a brief stop in the village of Sauternes on my way back to the hotel to taste sweet wines. Most Sauternes properties charge for visits and tastings. Plus, I had limited time. Therefore, I went to the Maison du Sauternes, which is a store run by an association of Sauternes producers. It only features wines from Sauternes and Barsac producers. They sell just about all the labels in the appellation, so you can find 14 euro bottles or 500 euro bottles to take home with you. In addition, you can taste many of their bottles for free. Many of the bottles have some age too, so you can taste how they evolve. I bought a bottle of 1998 Raymond-Lafon for example. Sauternes are great wines to age and relatively cheaper at old ages compared to their red Bordeaux counterparts.
Tasting Notes
2020 Duc de Sauternes
This is the Maison du Sauternes’ own wine. Shy but waxy nose, but young, fruity palate. 89
2014 Clos Dady Sauternes
More nutty oxidized notes, intense palate compared to #1, dried apricot, more acidity. 91
2003 Rayne Vigneau Sauternes
Ripest of the 3, fruity candied – less acidity but intense, exotic – still young – surpringly less evolved than the Dady. But some savory nutty notes coming through on the final whiff. 93
Branaire-Ducru Mini-Vertical Tasting
I originally wanted to do a St. Julien vertical tasting with my family in France, because St. Julien is one of the more consistent appellations and middle of the road stylistically in the Medoc. Luckily, the Saint-Emilion store (Marchand de Soif) had several vintages of Branaire-Ducru, one of my favorite producers. I had already tasted the 1996, 2009, 2014 of this wine, have the 2016 in my cellar and bought the 2022 en primeur.
Branaire-Ducru is a 4th Growth Bordeaux. Their vineyards are planted to roughly two-thirds Cabernet, a quarter Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. They make about 25,000 cases a year, and still remain one of the best QPR wines of the classified growth Bordeaux.
Tasting Notes
2005 Perfect cork. Darkest, deepest color of them all. Balanced at this point but still young in flavor profile. Ripe fruit, good acidity with integrated and sweet and savory oak notes but the age and style of the chateau gives it an elegance. Still need to wait to reach tertiary notes. 94+ On the second day, the fruit is starting to taste like dried fruit, but other tertiary notes haven’t arrived yet.
2001 This celebrates the year I first visited Bordeaux/France. Still dark youthful color. Less expressive nose than the 86 but more on the primary and secondary notes. Dark fruit and spice. Baking spice. Palate is round. More dark fruit and good acid. Better after revisiting in an hour later, more expressive on the palate and nose, but still more primary and secondary. 91+ On the second day, tertiary notes start to emerge on the nose and palate.
1986 Moldy cork that broke but only slightly soaked. Lightest color, shows age but not excessive bricking given the age. Nose of mushrooms, pepper, leather. Still plenty of acidity on the palate, still plenty of fruit too but more on the dried fruit side. With a touch of licorice with some earthy and tobacco notes. Smooth but still some tannins left. After an hour, there’s even more fruit and a touch of floral notes with softer texture but rather youthful given the age but it still doesn’t have the balance of 2005 overall. But the mature nose and texture with still vibrant fruit make it an excellent wine that has a nice balance of primary, secondary and tertiary notes. 93
All of them are on the classic, feminine side of Bordeaux, which has been my experience with Branaire-Ducru. Good acidity. Low alcohol (12 for 86 and 13 for the 2001 and 2005) and balance of oak and ripeness of fruit. 05 and 01 had about 30+ minutes of being opened while the 86 was essentially a pop and pour. They were all probably a bit too warm because we drank them outside in the middle of summer.
In terms of price, anyone that bought these en primeur should be happy. They’ve developed nicely. It’s always an inflated price getting them at this stage, but I’d say 2005 is still worth it given the price of classified Bordeaux these days. The 2001 is a little more than it should be while the 86 is about what it should cost at this age given it’s still drinking well.