Wine Review: Exploring the Neverending Landscape of Italian Wines

I’m still on my Italian wines discovery journey with 5 more Italian wines to explore with you. Be aware that once you start this journey, there will be a never-ending assortment of regions, styles and varieties to try. 

My Italian Wines Quest

I’ve likened exploring wine to travel several times in this blog. Although some people prefer to travel to the same places and always drink wines from the same regions, varieties and styles, my personality always pushes me to explore something new, exotic and lesser-known when it comes to wine and travel. I’m a lifelong learner, world traveler and wine explorer. Given I can’t travel as much as I used to, my wanderlust has been replaced by a passion to discover new wine. 

Without the same reach and influence as French wines but with just as much diversity and cultural importance, the Italian wine world is like candy land for wine explorers. This is especially true as many regions attempt to revive native grapes and winemaking continues to improve. This is already at least my third post devoted just to exploring different Italian varieties and styles (see 1 & 2) while several others were explored in other themed posts including Italian varieties in Chile or European whites. I’m sure I’ll have more in the future too. 

This time around, I picked 5 wines that stood out to me as exotic or that I hadn’t talked about in this blog but should have. I’ll tell you more about each one in the tasting notes. All the wines are less than $50 in the US with most under $30.

Tasting Notes

2022 Casa d’Ambra Ischia Biancolella 

Ischia is a 45 km squared island about 30 km off the coast from Naples. If you’ve ever seen the series or read the novel “My Brilliant Friend” by Elena Ferrante, some of the key events take place here. Besides its famous castle, thermal spas and beaches, they’ve been making wine here for thousands of years. Here, they take advantage of their own native grapes, the Mediterranean climate, volcanic soil and sea breezes to make some delicious wines. 

85% Biancolella with a bit of Forastera and San Lunardo (all native grapes). Although Biancolella can be found on the mainland of Campania, Ischia’s expression has the most character. Only stainless steel. Pretty nose of sea salt, citrus, white flowers and white fruit. The palate follows through with similar notes of white peach, citrus and floral notes. Nice intensity without being in your face. Medium+ acidity. Medium body. A pretty white. 180,000 bottles were made. 92

2017 Planeta Nocera Sicilia

Speaking of beautiful islands with volcanic soils, Sicily is more famous for other varieties like Nero d’Avola, Catarratto (for Marsala), Nerello Mascalese (for Etna Rosso), and Carricante (for Etna Bianco). I’ve even tasted other varietals like Grillo, Greganico, Perricone and Frappato. They also have some other international varieties. However, this is my first time trying Nocera, which is rare especially as a varietal wine. It’s a grape known to have dark fruit and spice while keeping good acidity despite the hot weather. 

Ripe blackberry, light bodied with some tannic and acidic structure but not the most complex wine. Some clay like notes. Cloudy color, so probably unfiltered. Others liked this more for its fruit-driven drinkability.  89

2017 Cantina di Gallura “Karana” Nebbiolo Colli del Limbara Sardinia 

As you know, I’m always in search of quality Nebbiolo grown outside of Barolo because Barolo can be so expensive. This Nebbiolo from Sardinia was only $10.  Founded in 1956, together with that of Monti and that of Berchidda, the Cantina Sociale della Gallura is one of the three main cooperative centers in northern Sardinia. Nebbiolo was imported to Sardinia in 1700 from Piedmont. 

Nebbiolo 90%, Sangiovese and Caricagiola 10%; Maceration 5-6 days. Some floral notes, red and dark berry fruit but lower acidity than most Nebbiolo. Has tannins, but fine with food. Not my favorite Nebbiolo, but I won’t complain at this price. 89

2018 Schiopetto Podere dei Blumeri Capriva del Friuli IGT ROSSO VENEZIA GIULIA 

Although I’ve posted about Chilean Refosco, this is my first time trying Italian Refosco. The grape is most well-known in Friuli and nearby in Slovenia and Croatia. It’s known as a dark, fruity wine with good acidity. 

Refosco and Merlot blend 50/50. Oak barrels of 225 and 500 liters for 14 months; Minimum 18 months in bottle. Ripe, fruity, and some mild oak. Silky texture. More modern and crowd pleasing style. But some acidity to keep it fresh. Medium bodied. Moderate soft tannins. I haven’t had enough Refosco to say I can point out its influence, but the style is more international so that also makes it harder to pick out. 90

2016 Basilisco Crua Vulture Superiore Aglianico

Aglianico is already well-known among Italian winelovers, but I’ve never reviewed an Italian one on this blog, only Chilean. I hadn’t had an Italian one since I lived in Switzerland 6 years ago, so it was good to get a refresher on this grape that many call the “Nebbiolo of Southern Italy.” Aglianico can come in different styles, but there are versions that I’ve had that are bright, complex, well-structured but have a light-weight feel similar to Nebbiolo. Others can be darker, creamier and more influenced by oak. Its best expressions are from Campania’s Taurasi and Basilicata’s Aglianico del Vulture–two areas with a lot of volcanic soils.

Organic. Perfumed nose with something earthy, spicy and floral. It manages to package the fruit but has a light, elegant feel. Yet there are substantial tannins. Can see the Nebbiolo comparisons. Darker fruit though, lower acid but it doesn’t lack freshness. Could still evolve. 92+

2022 Schreckbichl Colterenzio Cora Pinot Bianco Sudtirol Alto Adige 

As a bonus, I’m including notes from a wine someone brought that’s worth mentioning as a genre. Alto-Adige has some interesting red varieties like Teroldego, Schiava, and Lagrein, and they also do Bordeaux blends and even Carmenere. However, their whites also stand out. Wine geeks tend to adore their Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon Blanc in addition to German varieties like Muller-Thurgau, Sylvaner, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. It’s a cool nexus of French, German and Italian influence. 

Alto Adige’s Pinot Bianco rarely sees oak or goes through malolactic fermentation, so it’s a more understated white that can be versatile with all types of food. To gain complexity, some of the higher end ones are aged on fine lees though. In fact, the Riserva Pinot Biancos from Alto-Adige often outperform those from Austria and France.  Some wine experts even say Alto Adige’s Pinot Bianco is the world’s most underrated white. Italian whites in general rarely disappoint with food and are typically fresh, crisp wines. They may be the best bargain whites around the world.  

Shy nose but fruity apple and floral palate but with good freshness. Medium acid. Medium-light bodied. As advertised, it’s something that won’t clash with anything you’re eating with subtle but pretty flavors. 89

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