Wine Review: Sardinian vs. Chilean Carignan

Chilean Carignan is a must for wine geeks who want to know the diversity and quality of Chilean wines better. Let’s see how it compares to some Old World Carignan from Italy. 

Global Carignan

I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but old-vine Carignan should be taken more seriously as a top variety for the future. It does well in hot weather yet is naturally high in acid, making it capable of aging. I often compare it to Sangiovese or just Italian reds in general with its red fruit and acidic structure. 

Chile (particularly Maule), California, Catalonia and the South of France all used to grow a lot more Carignan before they were replaced by darker, riper tasting varieties. They all still have old-vine Carignan left and are warm weather climates. However, it’s Chile that’s trying to preserve and highlight Carignan the most with their VIGNO collective label. This association is charged with preserving and ensuring the quality of Carignan from Maule. 

This time around, I wanted to compare Chilean Carignan with Italian Carignan (Carignano) from Sardinia (Sardegna). In terms of reds, Sardinia is better known for its Cannonau (Grenache), but about 8% of their production is Carignan. Besides Carignano, it can also be known as Bovale di Spagna or Bovale Grande, which are clonal variants of Carignan or Mazuelo in parts of Spain. It’s not Bovale Sardo though, which is Graciano in Spain. There are also some indigenous reds like Monica, which I have yet to explore. 

Carignan around the world has often been used as a blending grape in general to add acidity. That’s also the case in Sardinia. However, there are varietal versions. In particular, the DOC Carignano del Sulcis is specifically for red or rose wines made from Carignan. There are passito versions made here too. 

Tasting Notes

2021 Santadi Carignano del Sulcis Grotta Rossa Sardegna 

100+ year old vines. Screw cap. There’s a reductive and earthy Burgundian-like nose with lots of red cherry fruit up front on the palate, tart acidity and a savory, but slightly bitter aftertaste. Some herbal, tomato leaf. Medium-bodied. Soft tannins. Decent length. Unoaked. Like Italian Sangiovese but less spicy and no wood-aging influence. Mostly about juicy red fruit. A good food wine. Don’t feel it’s a wine to age long term though. 90 

2019 Bouchon VIGNO Maule 

From very old vines in Cauquenes. Bright red and dark fruits with earthiness, herbs and spice on the nose. The palate is medium+ bodied with round tannins at 6 years old, medium+ acid and dark and red berry fruits. Plus intensity on nose and palate. This is darker and fuller than the Sardinian Carignan with a bit less acidity and some wood aging unlike the Sardinian Carignan, but probably no new oak. There’s more alcohol.This is just bigger overall and probably more ageworthy as well, but still Carignan and even more Tuscan Sangiovese-like (of course depending on the producer/appellation). 92 

Conclusion

I liked both wines. The Bouchon VIGNO was bigger while the Sardinian was more for everyday drinking and lighter pairings. There are Carignano del Sulcis Superiore versions which require 2 years of aging just like the VIGNO aging requirements, so I imagine a “Superiore” Sardinian Carignan would have been even more similar. I just wish both were commonly available in the world market as cheaper alternatives to Tuscan reds. 

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