Let’s review a cool-climate Merlot from the extreme south of the South of America.
Southernmost Merlot?
Since I had already done some research on the southernmost Pinot Noir, I knew the Chubut region in Argentine Patagonia makes the southernmost Pinot with New Zealand and Chilean Patagonia close behind. Although some Merlot is being produced for markets as far south as Central Otago, NZ, some Merlot is also being made in Chubut, so it wins again as the southernmost Merlot. In fact, the same producer that I reviewed for the southernmost Pinot Noir article also produces varietal Merlot.
Global Warming & Merlot
However, I wouldn’t be surprised if I’m wrong and there is an even more southerly planted Merlot that has or will come to market given the effects of global warming on wine producers. Places like Bordeaux struggle to make classic styled Bordeaux at under 13% alcohol, and eventually Merlot, an early ripening grape, may have to be abandoned. On the other hand, other wines from cooler places like the Loire Valley, which I just reviewed, and English sparkling are doing better with more ripeness. Unless we want all Merlots to taste like cheap, simple, flabby California “fucking” Merlot from the 90’s, producers have to start seeking cooler places to make it.
That’s why I decided to pick up this bottle of Merlot from Rio Negro, Argentina to see how it does in Patagonia. It’s not the furthest south, but it’s definitely a cool climate region.
*I reviewed a Patagonian Malbec a while back too.
Tasting Notes
2020 Fabre Montmayou Gran Reserva Merlot Alto Valle, Rio Negro, Patagonia
This costs about $20. Fabre Montmayou is based in Mendoza and their Malbec can be found at several stores in Chile, so I was surprised to see their Merlot was from Patagonia.. 100% Merlot from 40 year old vines. Aged 12 months in French oak.
Dark almost completely opaque color. The nose is oak driven with coffee, vanilla and chocolate and dark ripe berry fruit in the background, but it lacks intensity. The palate shows more fruit with a nice round and soft texture. No hard edges. Medium-bodied. A bit of spice. However, I was expecting more acidity given it was from Patagonia, but the acidity is low. Overall, the wine is rather boring and indistinct from a generic commercial Bordeaux blend or Malbec from Mendoza. There’s too much oak influence, even though it’s a creamy, dessert like oak, and not enough primary fruit notes to show this comes from Rio Negro. I think beginners will like this wine for the creamy feel and sweet oak notes, but as a wine geek, I want more of a sense of place and more freshness. 87