Pais (Mission), Chile’s oldest grape variety, is making a comeback. However, Pais is also the father of other criolla (creole) grape varieties in Chile and other parts of Latin America. There’s even a rare white Pais.
From Listan Prieto to Pais
Originally known as Listan Prieto in Spain, it was the first variety to be taken from Europe to the New World for wine production. In California, it took on the name Mission. In Argentina, it’s called Criolla Chica, and here in Chile it’s known as Pais.
Through the years since the start of the Spanish conquest and further colonization of Latin America, Pais has mutated and crossed with other grape varieties, especially with Moscatel de Alejandria, to produce criolla varieties (crosses born in the Americas). This is the origin of Torrontes (Torontel), for example.
In addition, these grapes have mutated to make new varieties like Tamarugal. I’ve even met some local producers who prefer to call their Pais, Listan Prieto, because they believe their vines are from the original strain while there are some Pais vines that are really mutations of the original Listan Prieto. Many of the vines actually date back to colonial times ranging from 80-450+ years old, so it’s possible some are still from the original vines.
Many of these old vines were abandoned and allowed to grow on their own in the “wild.” Producers like Villalobos and J. Bouchon have decided to make wines from these wild vines, labeled Salvaje in Spanish. In some cases, these vines have spread up trees next to the vineyard, and they need ladders to harvest the grapes as high as 6 meters up (hence the ladders on the label).
White Pais
Recently in 2016, they found that some of the Pais vines were producing light colored grapes. J Bouchon decided to vinify these separately as a white wine. Although most reds can be made as a white wine if there is no skin-contact (maceration), that is not the case here. White Pais (Pais Blanco) appears to be a white mutation of the normally red Pais grape. I’m not sure if they’ve done a DNA test yet to figure it out though. Anyway, this is the only Pais Blanco that I know of that’s in the market.
Tasting Notes
2022 Bouchon Salvaje País Blanco Maule
This comes from 123 year old vines growing wildly in the trees. White clusters were separated from the red clusters and fermented and aged 6 months in tinajas (clay amphora) with native yeasts and no filtration nor fining.
The color is quite light. The nose has an herbal, native yeast side to it, but it’s rather neutral overall. The palate is medium-light bodied with mild white fruit and good acidity. I would probably guess that this was an unoaked Chardonnay from a moderate climate. Overall, a fairly simple wine on the nose but that packs above average vibrancy and freshness on the palate. 90