Although the Rhone is famous for its reds, Rhone whites are becoming more popular.
Northern Rhone White Wines
The overall trend in the wine world is towards lighter, fresher wines that can be food-friendly or served as aperitif. Thus, lighter reds and white wines as a whole have been becoming more popular. In particular, whites are the choice for aperitif. Moreover, global warming is making it harder to grow red grapes, and with warmer weather, white wines are more refreshing.
In the case of the Rhone Valley, white wine production has doubled from around 5% a decade ago to 10% nowadays. In addition, we may see more red appellations do what Gigondas has, which is to officially start allowing white wines.
Southern Rhone whites are usually various combinations of Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, Ugni Blanc and possibly other varieties. However, the Northern Rhone is focused on Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne.
Like in most of France, the type of white varieties used in the Northern Rhone are determined by the appellation. Condrieu is the undisputed king of varietal Viognier although a bit is grown in Cote-Rotie and sometimes blended in their Syrah. Hermitage, Croze-Hermitage and St. Joseph usually make Marsanne and Roussanne blends for their whites with Marsanne usually making up the majority of the blend. However, these three appellations produce at least 80% reds and Cornas only makes reds, so production is still small. Finally, the small appellation of Saint Perey makes dry and sparkling Marsanne and Roussanne blends.
I found three Northern Rhone whites of each variety, so it will be interesting to check out all three varieties separately. Viognier is typically a full-bodied, round, high-alcohol, low-acid, high sugar white that can take on oak aging. You get stone fruit, white flowers, herbs and honey. Condrieu versions are highly sought after, expensive and ageable, but I found a bargain, unoaked version from just outside Condrieu.
In Northern Rhone white blends, Roussanne adds aromatics like honey, pear, tea, herbs and chamomile while Marsanne gives the wine more texture with honey, melon and floral notes. They’re somewhat similar, but Marsanne is usually fuller and more tannic while Roussanne is usually lighter and higher in acid. Marsanne also produces higher yields. I’m curious to taste them individually though. I also found some relatively cheaper options (under $50) because Hermitage versions can cost an arm and leg.
Tasting Notes
2020 Clos de la Bonnette “Cuvée Archette” Viognier Vin de Pays Collines Rhodaniennes
Le Clos de la Bonnette is a small vineyard just outside of Condrieu. Like Condrieu, this is 100% Viognier, but it’s aged for six months in stainless steel. In comparison, most Condrieu producers ferment and age their wine 6-9+ months in oak barrels or a combination of stainless steel and oak with varying amounts of new oak.
The nose is rather shy but the palate is balanced, expressive and interesting. It’s certainly lower alcohol and lighter-bodied than most Viognier I’ve had. There’s a silkiness to the texture but it’s not as viscous. It’s medium-bodied. There’s a bit more acid though with citrusy, medium-low acid to keep it fresh. It’s very honeyed and white flower influenced, with apricots and something musky. Medium length. I often find Viognier to be too big and alcoholic, but I like this as a more versatile food pairing with its higher acid, lower alcohol and subtler flavors to go with spicy Asian foods like curry or something more subtle and umami like sushi. It’s not a blockbuster Condrieu Northern Rhone white, but it brings lots of Viognier characteristics in a lighter package if you’re looking to mix up your white wine repertoire beyond Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. If the nose opens up, the score could be a bit higher. 2nd day – The nose opens up more with similar notes to the palate: white peach, white flowers and some sweet spices. The palate is a little rounder and fuller. I’ll give it a solid 91.
2021 André Perret Marsanne Vin de Pays Collines Rhodaniennes
Average 25-year-old vines on sandy soil from ungrafted Marsanne vines. They practice some green harvesting to lower yields. Fermented and aged 12 months in both vats and barrels. Like the previous wine, the Vin de Pays Collines Rhodaniennes designation is for Northern Rhone wines who go outside the area, variety and method requirements of the appellations. This generally means lower prices for the wine too since it doesn’t have a more expensive moniker.
A fruity wine overall. The nose and palate exhibit ripe yellow apple and honeydew notes with a bit of floral notes. There’s sort of cream soda, vanilla, marzipan flavor on the palate though, so perhaps that’s the oak influence. Medium bodied and medium acid. Low alcohol. A touch savory on the medium finish. Easy to enjoy for early consumption. 90
2021 JL Chave Circa St. Joseph Blanc
JL Chave is considered one of the top if not the best producer of Hermitage reds and whites. This differs in that it’s all Roussanne and grown on different soils in St. Joseph. This comes from old-vine Roussanne on granitic soil as opposed to the clay and limestone soil he grows his whites (majority Marsanne) on in Hermitage. Fermentation 100% in barrel. Aged in barriques for 14 months.
Aromatic nose: fruity, white flowers with a savory minerally note. Pear and white peach. On the palate, medium-bodied and somewhat oily texture, moderate+ alcohol, and medium-low acid. A touch of spice. Only mild oak notes. Good intensity, ripeness and length but still remains fairly light and fresh on the palate. 92
Conclusion
Overall, these are a nice change of pace from the more common whites like Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. These are whites with more honey, white floral notes and more body. However, they’re often more expensive since not a lot is made or distributed, but these 3 wines are relatively affordable ways to see what Northern Rhone whites are all about.
Do you have any favorite Northern Rhone Whites?