Can a Napa Sangiovese quench my Italian wine cravings? We’ll find out.
As I’ve written about in the past, I love Italian reds like Sangiovese because they can be both profound and food-friendly. In fact, I cook a lot of Mediterranean-styled food, which matches the Mediterranean herbal side of Sangiovese. Moreover, its acidity is also great for tomato sauces and cutting through fatty meat.
Yet, living in Chile, it’s hard to find affordable Italian wine options, so I go for Chilean Carignan instead. This typically works better than the handful of Chilean grown Italian varieties. Chilean Sangiovese does exist among some producers in Aconcagua, the Elqui Valley, and Colchagua, but it’s not really a thing here.
Similarly, Italian varieties (besides Zinfandel) grown in California aren’t always the most satisfying for an Italian wine lover and are uncommon. Perhaps like in Chile, Carignan has better prospects, especially since it used to be widely planted in California. However, I have had California Sangiovese before in places like the Sierra Foothills and Paso Robles, but this is my first Napa Sangiovese. How does it compare side by side with a Tuscan Sangiovese?
Tasting Notes
2018 Borreo Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese Napa
Silverado is typically a great QPR for Napa Cabernet at less than $50. This Sangiovese was under $30 at the SFO airport. 13 months in 60-gallon and 500L French oak barrels. 16% new French oak. 2,236 cases made. 100% Sangiovese all from the Borreo Ranch vineyard, which was originally owned by Italian immigrants, bought by Silverado and whose winery burned down in 2017. This is a tribute to the original owners.
The color is medium-light transparent. There’s a lot of savory, dried herbs and spice, reminding me of Italian Sangiovese with red fruit. However, there’s some sweet vanilla as well. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, medium+ acidity (more than most Napa wines) along with a savory finish. It’s a little warm but not hot and the mid-palate was a little lacking at first, but the attack makes an impression. Overall, one wouldn’t mistake this for most other Bordeaux-variety Napa, and it could pass for a more modern Tuscan Sangiovese with slightly riper, less acidic flavors and new oak influence. I wouldn’t mind seeing more Napa Sangiovese, but there probably won’t be any since it won’t fetch the same price as Napa Cabs. You have to justify the price of real estate in Napa. 90
2019 Banfi Rosso di Montalcino
100% Sangiovese. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in French oak casks and barriques for 3-6 months.
Found this to be a rather typical Tuscan Sangiovese with a red fruit and orange peel nose along with spice, herbs and cedar. A touch floral. The palate shows tangy cherries and savory spices. Maybe a little oakier than some. It started off a bit hollow on the mid-palate, but it filled out and has decent length.
Compared to the Napa Sangiovese, it’s more transparent in color, slightly lighter-bodied, and has a bit more acidity. There’s less ripe, dark fruit overall. The amount of oak influence is about the same, but it’s savorier and spicier overall while the Napa has more of a sweet, vanilla oak influence. Also under $30 at the airport in Panama. 90
Conclusion
In the end, the Napa is more modern with more fruit, ripeness, and body with some oak, but it’s still quite restrained compared to most Napa and not far from a more modern Tuscan Sangiovese while the Banfi fits the bill of classic Tuscan Sangiovese with just a bit more oak. I’d drink both of them with a variety of foods, but the Banfi meshed a bit better with the Bolognese pasta we had since it has a bit more acidity. That being said, the Borreo Napa Sangiovese might be the best non-Italian Sangiovese I’ve tried.
Finally, it seems like a homerun match to produce Sangiovese in the Mediterranean climates of Chile and California, but that’s not always the case. Are they trying to make it more Italian-like or produce their own thing? Which do local consumers prefer? Unlike Pinot or Cabernet, people can’t quite latch on to the idea of different styles of Italian varieties in countries outside its origin. Even with New World Pinot and Cabernet, people constantly still compare them to Burgundy and Bordeaux. Overall, I always prefer more diversity and options as a wine consumer, so we’ll see if there are more New World Sangiovese.