Chardonnay is the world’s most well-known white variety and is grown all over the world. However, I found a couple of French Chardonnays from areas not known for Chardonnay and compared them to two Chardonnays from regions more well-known for this variety.
Global Chardonnay
Like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay can be produced well all over the world. I would even argue that international Chardonnay can better rival their Burgundian counterparts than international Pinot Noir can, especially as more producers move away from over-oaked, over-ripe and buttery Chardonnay styles.
One area I’ve had some awesome Chardonnay is Down Under, like Kumeu, New Zealand and Margaret River, Australia. I found a producer from Margaret River I had never tried before with good press for this comparison.
In addition, I opened up a Chablis to have another Chardonnay from a well-known region. However, it’s a little different since it’s a producer focused on more organic and natural winemaking.
Two places I’ve never had Chardonnay from, even though they’re in France, are Bordeaux and Beaujolais. Although technically Beaujolais is part of the larger Burgundy region, Chardonnay is only about 3% of the plantings there. Beaujolais is known for its Gamay of course, but I rarely see Chardonnay from Beaujolais outside of France.
Likewise, Bordeaux is known for its red blends and dry or sweet whites made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Overall, I’m seeing more white wines pop up outside the Graves, where most Bordeaux whites come from in Bordeaux, in places like the Medoc or the Right Bank. These are mostly Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc/Gris though or Blanc de Noirs. However, a few producers are experimenting with Chardonnay, which is not an approved variety here. I ran into one at my visit of La Gaffeliere in St. Emilion, but it was really expensive and could only be purchased at the Chateau. Plus, a lot of the Bordeaux whites popping up from top producers in the Medoc like Pichon Baron or Cos D’Estournel are also expensive. So when I found a reasonably priced Bordeaux Chardonnay from Hubert de Boüard, the owner of the top St. Emilion producer Angelus, I pounced on it for this comparison.
Tasting Notes
2021 Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc Classic
Native yeasts with minimal sulfites added. The medium dark golden color makes it look like it’s had some oak aging or the wine has some age in general. However, I’ve seen conflicting info. if it’s oaked or not. There seems to be some mild oak notes to me though along with some malo. There’s also some apple, white peach fruit and floral, honey notes with a savory and yogurty side. Medium acid with medium body. I find it rather middle of the road Burgundian Chardonnay stylistically. It could use a little more acidity. 89
2019 Hubert de Boüard Chardonnay Vin de Pays de l’Atlantique
100% Chardonnay aged in Allier barrels. From the same owner as Chateau Angelus in St. Emilion. It comes from Burgundian plants. I can’t find where they grow the grapes, but I assume it’s somewhere in the Right Bank among their many holdings. I think more recent vintages are now labeled La Fleur de Boüard Chardonnay. Vanilla oak, medium+ body with some creaminess, some malo butter. Medium acid. Touch of savory spice. This is a bit more heavy handed with oak compared to average Burgundian Chardonnay, but it’s still far from California Chardonnay which has even more malo and oak. I like it. It marries high quality oak typically used in Bordeaux with a Burgundian variety. I think most people guessed New World Chardonnay though like a more restrained Sonoma Chardonnay. 92
2020 Pattes Loup (Thomas Pico) Vent d’Ange Chablis
From 60+ year old vines, fermented and aged in a combination of concrete eggs, neutral barrel and stainless steel. More floral and leesy than other Chablis I’ve had. Higher acid than most of the other Chardonnays in this tasting. Cloudy color so unfiltered. I just like the feel and the integration of all the notes showing intensity with elegance. 93
2020 Mchenry Hohnen Chardonnay Calgardup Margaret River
Hand picked and whole-bunch pressed. Fermented in barrel (25% new) with native yeasts and 4 months maturation in barrel. Partial malolactic. Bâtonnage every 2 weeks. Most oaked of all the Chardonnays but well integrated. Somewhat tropical but still restrained and elegant with high acid. High intensity. Medium-bodied. Touch creamy, but not so buttery. Lots of salinity too. Very different style than the Pattes Loup Chablis, but the most complete and more ageability. 94+
Conclusion
The two more exotic sources of Chardonnay were good, but I still liked the Margaret River and Chablis better. They were more expensive though, so they should be better. The Bordeaux Chardonnay in particular was certainly better than most Chardonnay I’ve had at the same price of $25. It’s also interesting that although most places that grow Pinot Noir also grow Chardonnay, there are also places like Napa and Margaret River, who do Bordeaux blends and Chardonnay. Therefore, why not make Chardonnay in Bordeaux?