Malbec originates from Southwest France, where appellations like Cahors specialize in varietal Malbec. However, there’s a bit of Malbec being grown further north in central France too.
French Malbec
Wine geeks love to talk about terroir and how much that plays a role in wine. Certainly, Malbec from Argentina or Chile is different from Malbec from Cahors due to different soils, rootstock, climate and winemaking styles.
Malbec has different names too such as Côt or Auxerrois. That can sometimes distinguish the rootstock and style as well since some producers distinguish Malbec as coming from pre-phylloxera rootstock and Côt as coming from more recent French cuttings. The latter produced in France tend to be more tannic, higher in acid and less lush compared to Argentinian Malbec.
However, what about Malbec from other parts of France? Other parts of the South West France wine region also allow Malbec, including Bordeaux. However, it’s usually a part of a blend outside of Cahors.
You do find some in the central Loire too, but Cabernet Franc reigns supreme there as the most common red variety with a bit of Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grolleau and Pineau d’Aunis. Malbec is even harder to find in the Muscadet appellation, but I found one, which of course is labeled as a Loire Valley wine since it doesn’t fit within the rules of Muscadet.
Even rarer is finding Malbec in Burgundy. Yet I found one from a well-known Cote du Nuits producer. Let’s see how these two wines compare to more well-known Cahors and Argentinian Malbec.
Tasting Notes
2020 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Cuvée M Vin de France
Clay-limestone soil. 100% Malbec planted in 2010. This is the first Malbec to be produced in the Cote du Nuits. The domaine is located in Vosne Romanee, and the vines are just at the border of Clos de Vougeot and within the regional appellation of “Bourgogne.” However, it’s labeled “Vin de France,” because Malbec is not allowed in the rules of the appellation. The producer makes 9 Premier Cru and 5 Grand Cru Burgundies including Richebourg.
Hand-harvested and sorted. Whole bunches. Aged in oak muids (600 liters). Around 150,000 bottles are produced.
The color is lighter than most Malbec with more red than blue colors. Similarly on the nose and palate, there’s dark red fruit with blue fruit. However, the nose is more dominated by notes of chocolate and dried herbs with fruit and floral notes in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, round but more fruit driven. It’s higher in acid than 95% of the Mablecs I’ve tried. There’s a long savory finish. The nose could open up some more. If you’re an Argentine Malbec lover, you’ll find this too austere in terms of ripeness and with too much acid. Better with food and chilled to take the acidic edge off. Compared to Cahors Malbec, this is rounder than average at this age and even still a bit higher in acid. Definitely lower in alcohol too at only 12%. 89+
2022 Domaine de la Pépière La Pépiè Côt Val de Loire
100% Côt (Malbec) from the Muscadet region but it’s classified as Vin de Pays de la Loire since Malbec is not allowed in the Muscadet AOC. Biodynamic. Destemmed. Only free-run juice. Native yeasts. 5-6 months in stainless steel.
The color is quite light and transparent. Would never guess Malbec on how it looks. The nose and palate don’t point to Malbec either. Definitely feels low-intervention with native yeasts. Light and bright fruit with a touch of spice and floral notes. Slightly fizzy. Nose is rather shy though. Only 11% alcohol. Not so far off from the Chilean Pais we had before this. Reminds me of Gamay or Pinot from the Loire or some low intervention Grenache from Madrid. This is lighter and lower in acid than the Burgundy Malbec, which was darker, fuller but also higher in acid. On the second day, the fizz went away, the nose opened up. It’s a fun, floral and fruity wine. An extra point. 90
Conclusion
Ultimately, the Burgundy Malbec was still too austere and high in acid. I don’t think I’d confuse it with Burgundy nor any mainstream Malbec. The Muscadet Malbec is also completely different from most Malbec, but it’s similar in style as other reds in the Loire. I wouldn’t say these are homerun experiments, but I’m curious to see how future renditions will be with more global warming and more experience with the variety in the region. Terroir indeed does make a big difference, and Malbec without its usual warm weather tastes different. Moreover, it’s quite daring to make Malbec in Burgundy given how much Burgundy Pinot goes for.