Wine Review: Cool Chilean Sparklings

Usually around the holidays, I try to review a Chilean sparkling wine (espumante). Despite not being my favorite type of Chilean wine, Chilean espumantes have been improving of late. 

Cool Chilean Espumante

When we first arrived in Chile 6 years ago, most Chilean sparkling wines were sweet Charmat method sparklings. Now, more and more producers are making Traditional (Champagne) Method Brut or even Zero-Brut/Brut Nature (no sugar dosage) espumante like Tatie, Montes Sparkling Angel, Azur, Errazuriz and Gemma. 

I found two new, unique Chilean sparklings to review. Both are Traditional Method. The first is unique because it comes from a new producer in the cool region of Patagonia around Lake Llanquihue south of Osorno and Rio Bueno, where most Patagonian producers are. This producer is located in Puerto Varas with vines around Frutillar. If you’re in the area, which has stunning views of lakes, volcanoes and German architecture, you can pick up some bottles from the producer in Puerto Varas. 

The other is unique because it’s made of Semillon, which is making a comeback in Chile. It’s actually only the second sparkling Semillon I’ve seen in Chile. Most Traditional Method sparklings in Chile use traditional Champagne varieties: Pinot Noir and/or Chardonnay. 

Tasting Notes

2021 Casa Klocker Prambs Gran Lago Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuenca del Llanquihue Patagonia

View from the beach in Frutillar of Lake Llanquihue and volcanoes.

Founded in 2012 by Claudio López Klocker, descendent of Austrian and Swiss immigrants who came in the 19th century, with a focus on sparkling wines using eco-friendly methods. The grapes are grown in Pedernal Bajo in Frutillar around Lake Llanquihue. It’s one of the southernmost producers in Chile. Tiny production. A bottle costs about $37. Soils are a mix of volcanic and limestone with a bit of clay. 100% Gewürztraminer. They also make a sparkling rosé made with Pinot Noir and a bit of  Malbec.

Everything is done by hand. Native yeasts with the initial fermentation. 12 months on lees. Standard dosage for a Brut at 12 g/l. 11.5% alcohol. 

The nose is shy with some toasted bread, honey, floral notes. The palate has plenty of fine, fairly intense bubbles with medium persistence. Lots of Gewürz flavor up-front like lychee and lemon-honey notes with medium+ acid. The nature of Gewürz gives it a sweet like character to the fruit, but this is still a dry wine. Light and refreshing. Not cloying. But it’s definitely not a typical Chardonnay-Pinot sparkling. It has some Gewürz character, which is apropos given the Germanic influence of the region.  

I was hoping to have more volcanic character to it given its location, but it’s still a step above typical Charmat method Chilean sparkling which lack the same finesse and/or are too cloying even for Brut. The owner really emphasizes how the cold climate of Patagonia, similar to European climates where sparkling is made, is conducive to making great sparkling. Patagonian sparkling seems like a logical option for Chilean producers, especially with global warming. 90

NV Schwaderer Brut Semillon Metodo Tradicional Maule

A family winery run by two sisters. Their wines are usually as unique and bold as their colorful labels. Only 4,730 bottles were made, but it costs only $10. Grapes were sourced from San Javier. 100% Semillon from 100+ year old vines. They also make a sparkling rosé from Pais, again emphasizing the traditional varieties of Chile. 

This spends 12 months on lees. 11.2 residual sugar. 12.5% alcohol. 

Less quantity and quality of bubbles than the Gran Lago or an average Champagne. A little less body too. However, like the Gran Lago, it is uniquely influenced by its variety. There’s beeswax, honey, white floral and apple notes. Don’t get a lot of bready notes, but there’s good acidity. Great for the price if you want a dry and unique sparkling. 89