Although Bonarda in Argentina is typically an easy drinking, fruity wine for early consumption, there are some more serious versions out there too.
Bonarda
Bonarda has its origins in Savoie, France, where it’s called Corbeau de Savoie or Douce Noir. By the way, this is not the same rare Bonarda Piemontese variety from Italy nor Croatina or Uva Rara, which can also be called Bonarda in Italy. Almost all of this Bonarda (Douce Noir from Savoie) is grown in Argentina nowadays, but some is also produced in California under the name Charbono. For both places, they came over with Italian immigrants in the late 19th century. That’s how it got confused with Italian Bonarda in Argentina and kept its name.
Before Argentina decided to make Malbec its national grape, old-vine Malbec was pulled out to plant high-yielding Bonarda. From most online sources I could find, it’s still the second most planted red although Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah might have taken it over. Also, Cereza, a criolla, high-yielding, pink-skinned variety, might actually be more produced by volume than Bonarda since it’s made for bulk wines and table grapes.
In Argentina, it’s typically an inexpensive, unoaked, soft tannin, medium-bodied, fruity and sometimes rustic wine with a bit of spice made for early consumption. It’s not so different from Argentinian Malbec, but Malbec usually has some oak, is fuller and often lower in acid.
In California, I’ve generally mostly had it in old-vine field blends, but some producers have varietal versions. Although I’ve never had one, Californian versions are said to be more tannic and fuller with the ability to age. I’ve had a 50% Charbono wine from Frog’s Leap, but it was on the lighter, fruity side.
This Bonarda from Zuccardi, one of the top producers in Mendoza, costs 3-4 times more than an average Bonarda, so I’m assuming it’s going to be a step-up, but how? Will it be more tannic, oaked and full? Will it be more intense, complex or elegant? We’ll see.
Tasting Notes
2018 Zuccardi Emma Bonarda Mendoza
I couldn’t find the tech sheet for this vintage, but current vintages are sourced from Altamira and San Pablo in the Uco Valley at higher elevation. Although they may have used oak in the past, I believe this was fermented and aged only in concrete vats with native yeasts. It retails for around $40. 2018 was considered a top vintage for Argentina like in Chile. I’ve never had Bonarda this old either.
This still drinks quite young. No signs of age in the color. The nose is about ripe, candied purple fruit, violets and sweet spices. The palate is medium-bodied with medium+ acid with plus intensity of fruit and touch of chalky minerality on the back end. Easy drinking, round tannins. It keeps its varietal characteristics but tries to up the game with elegance and intensity. There’s also more verve and freshness than average. They didn’t try to add value to the wine with more ripeness, extraction and oak. 92