Continuing my recent exploration of Italian reds and whites, I found 3 obscure varieties from Italy that I had never tried. Are they worth seeking out?
The first variety I tasted is called Petit Rouge from the Valle d’Aosta region north of Piedmont bordering Switzerland. It’s the most common red variety in this region. It’s often blended with Gamay and Pinot Noir to make light, fruity reds.
The second Italian variety I tasted is called Piedirosso from Campania. These days it’s typically blended with Aglianico and Olivella, but it’s used as the dominant grape in the Lacryma Christi wines from Vesuvio, where the grape is known as Per’e Palummo, or Palombina. Lacryma Christi wines must be at least 50% Piedirosso. Piedirosso is typically a full but softly tannic wine with influence from its volcanic soils.
The final wine comes from just south of Rome in the Lazio region. 2000 years ago, when the region was called Latium, their wines were only kept for emperors like Julius Caesar. Nowadays, wines from this region aren’t held in such high esteem but they’ve been slowly making a comeback. One of the varieties in this region is Cesanese of which there are two main types: Cesanese Comune and Cesanese di Affile. The latter is the less common but better quality of the two. It’s not an easy grape to grow because it ripens extremely late. Like the region, it’s slowly starting to get more attention as many producers are trying to revive indigenous grapes these days.
Tasting Notes
2017 Cave Cooperative de l’Enfer Valle d’Aosta Enfer d’Arvier
Some vintages have included varieties like Vien de Nus, Pinot Noir, Neyret and Mayolet but more recent vintages are 100% Petit Rouge, so I’m not sure what this is. The DOC allows up to a maximum of 15% of 5 other grapes. The vineyard is at 800m, high, in a rocky, hot micro-climate.
Clear but fairly dark tones. Not much on the nose but it’s on the savory side. The palate is light and fruity. Light-bodied. Medium acid. Along the lines of a Beaujolais Village. Simple, light and fruity. Light tannic structure. The nose and palate open up to fruity and floral notes. 89
2021 La Sibilla Piedirosso Campi Flegrei
The producer is located in Naples. Some of their vines are 100+ years old. Vinified and aged in steel tanks.
100% Piedirosso. Light, transparent cherry color. Smoky, flinty nose, showing the volcanic terroir. Round, medium-low acid, dark fruit, licorice. Moderate chalky tannins. 88
2020 Damiano Ciolli Cesanese di Olevano Romano Superiore Silene
100% Cesanese di Affile grapes from four vineyards. Nearly 100 year old vines. Grapes from each vineyard are fermented separately in concrete tanks. Fermentation is spontaneous and lasts about 10 days. Ages in cement tanks on its fine deposits for about a year. Located in Olevano Romano, 35 miles south of Rome, with vineyards planted in volcanic soils 450 meters above sea level.
Savory, soy sauce nose but becomes more fruit and floral driven. Similar color as the Piedirosso. Medium body and acid. Medium-low tannins. Palate also becomes more fruit driven, but rather generic dark and red fruit. Somebody said it reminded them of Merlot, which shows its potential crowd pleasing appeal, but it doesn’t quite stick out enough for me given the exoticism of the variety. 89
Conclusion
Overall, none of these wines really stand out one way or the other. They are pleasant with food. There’s nothing technically wrong with them. The Piedirosso has some volcanic influence, but is otherwise simple. The other two have a little more intensity, but are also rather generic. None of them are as acidic or structured as typical Italian varieties like Sangiovese or Nebbiolo, but in that way they could be good gateway wines to modern wine drinkers who don’t have a lot of experience with Italian wines just like Beaujolais and Grenache based Rhones make good gateway wines to French wines. However, some modern wine drinkers may prefer more oak influence, but I’m happy that none of these producers used oak so I could focus on the variety and terroir. Personally, I just wanted more verve, acidity and uniqueness.
