Bordeaux fans may recognize the label because this is owned by the Cuvelier family, who own Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien. Their Chilean branch is run by Baptiste Cuvelier. How do the 2011 and 2014 vintages compare?
Tasting Notes
The 2011 Agricola Cuvelier Cuvee del MaoLee Cauquenes, Maule is 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Carignan, 8% Pais, 7% Carmenere, 7% Cinsault, 4% Merlot. I’ve had this before almost 3 years ago. It’s darker than last time. Last time it was more red fruit dominated. Now, there’s a mix of dark and red berry fruits on the nose and palate. There’s a rustic wild quality to this that gives it a bit of a stink-some minerality, spice, tobacco, cinnamon and some licorice. Still fresh at 9 years old, but less acidic than 3 years ago. It’s rounder.
It feels very Maule. It’s sort of Beaujolais and classic Rhone or Southern France mixed together. You wouldn’t think there was so much Cabernet Sauvignon in this-at least not a New World Cabernet. Made from old vine Cabernet and Carignan. Dry-farmed. The Carmenere, Carignan and Pais received carbonic maceration. It was aged in 4-5 year-old used oak.
I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily better now or worse. If you like fruitier wines, then perhaps you should drink up soon. Otherwise, it has at least a couple more years. On the second day there are some tertiary notes of mushroom, dried fruit, and earthiness. Closer to an aged Bordeaux. 90 pts AC.
The 2014 Agricola Cuvelier Cuvee del Mautata is 33% CS, 20% Carignan, 17% Pais, 10% Carmenere, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. The 2014 includes fruit from Itata and not just Maule like the 2011, hence the name change to Cuvee del Mautata. The blend is more or less the same, but the Bordeaux varietals now all come from Vina Chillan in Bulnes, Itata. The Carignan and Pais received carbonic maceration like with the 2011 and aging process is the same.
After having just revisited the 2011 of this the day before, I thought this 2014 would be similar to the 2011 I had 3 years prior. There’s definitely more acidity like the 2011 had 3 years ago, but overall this wine comes off very herbaceous and more “natural wine” than the 2011 even though both used the same natural wine practices. Even with the first pour, there’s some sediment. The nose is very herbaceous-like dried thyme and parsley with a little mint. The palate is high in acid, sort of like sour plum skins. There’s a lot of vegetal notes and some black pepper.
I’m not really on one side of the natural wine debate. The 2011 aged well and was an excellent wine. However, the 2014 is not for people who like fruit forward modern wines. It’s definitely more of a food wine. It could still improve a bit if the acidity settles down and perhaps more fruit emerges. Nonetheless, you have to like high acid wines and vegetal notes, which I do, but I still need more fruit in the end. 88 pts AC.
This wine can be found outside of Chile here or in Chile at CAV or Edwards for around 10 CLP or $13.
