Over the course of the week, I tried two GSM blends: one from the Rhone Valley in France and one from Chile. Which one was better?
The Rhone GSM was from Chateau de St. Cosme, a famous producer in the Southern Rhone, most known for their Gigondas. The 2017 St. Cosme Les Deux Albion Cotes du Rhone was 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 15% Carignan, 10% Mourvedre, 5% Clairette, unfiltered, and aged in large wooden and concrete tanks.
The Chilean GSM was from Polkura, most known for their Syrah. Their 2016 Polkura GSM + T Colchagua had a similar composition of 45% Syrah, 28% Grenache, 13% Mourvedre, but uniquely 14% Tempranillo. The Polkura was also unfiltered, but aged in used oak barrels.
They are only a half a year apart in terms of age.
Their terroirs are also a bit similar. The St. Cosme terroir consists of clay, limestone and pebbles while the Polkura vineyards are on clay and granite soils.
Their prices in Chile are exactly the same at around 16,000 CLP ($21)-Edwards sells the St. Cosme and CAV sells the Polkura in Chile. Outside of Chile, the Polkura is a little more expensive than the St. Cosme. However, production for the Polkura GSM+T is only around 200 cases while the St. Cosme Deux Albion’s production is about 20 times as much.
Tasting Notes
The St. Cosme has a medium intense but complex nose. Ripe Syrah fruit with licorice to start off. Then there are notes of minerality, beef jerky and dark tea. The palate gets a rush of that same fruit. The mid-palate is a bit diluted though and there’s more clay-like minerality and chalky tannins. It’s warm but not hot despite the 15.5% alcohol. It’s not high in acid, but it stays relatively fresh. Later there’s a touch of garrigue and more of that clay pot tea going on. I think I like the 2016 of this better. This one is more Syrah dominated than the 2016. The 2016 was a little lusher. 2016 and 2017 are considered great back to back years in the southern Rhone though. 90 pts AC.
The Polkura GSM +T: Immediately a big whiff of ripe dark berry fruit. Underneath there’s a touch of savory herbs, pepper, and clay. On the palate there’s more of that ripe fruit which engulfs the palate but with good acidity. It holds its 14.5% alcohol well and the tannins are soft and tamed. Overall, a fruit driven wine that doesn’t go over the top in terms of alcohol and flabbiness. The acidity keeps it together. Only used oak is used, so there’s not much influence of wood. I can’t say there’s much influence from the Tempranillo, but it’s an interesting blend nonetheless. 92 pts AC.
Conclusion
Compared to the St. Cosme, the Polkura has more verve, freshness and delicious fruit with the terroir more in the background. The St. Cosme felt like the terroir was more up front, but it lacked the pizazz of the Polkura. Both have some aging potential, but won’t disappoint right now too.
What food did you have with it? A nice beef stew perhaps?
Nothing fancy. Just some roast pork with rosemary.