Here’s a run down of my wine adventures during my latest annual trip to California. I did wine tasting in San Luis Obispo County (SLO) and Sonoma.
San Luis Obispo County Wine Tourism
Avila Beach
My family has a timeshare on the coast in Avila Beach, right next to the city of San Luis Obispo, so I’ve been here several times. It’s halfway between San Francisco & LA, so it could make a nice stopover or a nice base to explore Central Coast Californian wine. You could also visit Monterey County or San Benito County on the way to/from the Bay Area or Santa Barbara County coming from or going to LA. However, Santa Barbara County is close enough to comfortably do as a day trip, and many SLO producers source from both Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties.
Avila Beach itself has a couple wine tasting rooms. I recommend Sinor LaValle, which also sells fresh local oysters. Around Avila Beach are the Edna Valley & Arroyo Grande AVA’s. One of my favorites here is Talley Vineyards. The most common varieties you find here are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay although I’m starting to see more Spanish and Rhone varieties. Albariño makes a lot of sense given the coastal climate. There’s also the new SLO Coast AVA, which encompasses Arroyo Grande, Edna Valley and other coastal areas around it.
Region SLO
The other major wine region is Paso Robles and all the sub-AVA’s within it. I wrote about it during my California trip 2 years ago. Generally, Paso Robles is known for bold reds ranging from Zin, Petite Sirah, Cab and Rhone varieties. Right next to the Paso Robles is the smaller AVA of York Mountain, which focuses on cooler climate Cabernet.
This time around, I checked out the self-service wine tasting bar called Region in the city of SLO. It’s only been around 2-3 years. If you’re a no frills wine geek like myself, and you have a short time to try to taste the diversity of sub-regions, styles and producers SLO has to offer, then Region is the place to go. You are given a glass and a card that serves as your tab, which allows you to access dozens of different local, family-run producers from wine dispensing machines. You can get a full glass, half a glass or a tasting pour. Tasting pours are like $2-5 depending on the wine. In the end, you try more producers, varieties, styles and sub-regions (tasting notes below) in one sitting than if you tried to drive around to all these places in 2 days, and you spend a lot less money too since you’re not paying for the ambience or tours. You can order food as well. It was also the middle of winter, so the wineries aren’t as charming as they are during other times of the year.
However, I still decided to visit a nearby winery since it was close to where we went to see the Elephant seal colonies that migrate to the beaches of San Simeon to mate in the winter. Winter is also a good time to see Monarch butterflies around Pismo Beach and baby sea otters in Morro Bay.
As a wine geek, I immediately gravitated towards Raj Parr’s latest project at Stolo Vineyards in Cambria, less than an hour from the city of SLO. Raj Parr is a famous sommelier turned winemaker that has received much praise for his Burgundy-esque Pinot and Chardonnay produced in Santa Barbara County and Oregon (Domaine de la Cote, Sandhi, Evening Land). He was even featured in some of the Somm documentary films.
However, Raj has stepped away from those projects (although he’s still a partner) to settle in Cambria and focus on 4 new properties he’s invested in. In 2020, he moved to Cambria and has been part of the winemaking process for these properties for about 4 years, but has only completely run the properties for about a year under the umbrella of the Parr Collective. In addition to Stolo are Brij, Scythian and Phelan Farms but all the wine is now vinified at the Stolo estate. Brijj, Phelan Farms and Stolo are based mostly in the SLO Coast region while Scythian sources from the Cucamonga Valley close to LA. 
With this new project, there is a particular focus on less common varieties along with sustainable and natural winemaking. For example, they use seaweed for fertilizing, sheep grazing and minimal sulfites. Tasting notes are below.
Sonoma County
I don’t want to write too much here, since this is pretty much on the well-beaten path. Overall, I prefer Sonoma to Napa. They’re basically the same distance coming from the Bay Area. It’s cheaper (although SLO winery tastings are a lot cheaper) and more diverse. You can get old-vine Zin, Cabernet that rivals Napa but cooler climate, the state’s top Pinots and Chardonnays, Rhone varietals and more cutting edge producers in terms of varieties and winemaking styles. You could spend a day just focusing on tasting rooms and wineries in/around one town like Sonoma City, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, and Healdsburg. Plus, there are some wineries further north along the Sonoma Coast AVA although many producers of Sonoma Coast wines are based or have tasting rooms further south, so you don’t have to drive as far.
St. Francis
This time around, I decided to focus on wineries/tasting rooms around Sebastopol although I did stop around Santa Rosa to check out St. Francis Winery, where my sister was able to get us a free tasting. St. Francis has beautiful grounds, produces the major varieties of the region and is in the middle of the road stylistically, so it should impress casual and more serious wine drinkers alike.
In Sebastopol, I checked out their version of Region, which was like the Region in SLO, but with Sonoma County wineries. It’s bigger than the SLO version with more food options. In addition, I got to try Red Car, which was my favorite of the day with their Burgundy-leaning Sonoma Coast Pinots and Chardonnays at reasonable prices. Lastly, I checked out Pax, which is a cool wine producer and wine bar focused on carbonic maceration, Syrah and other less common varieties such as Trousseau Gris. They also serve some yummy snacks. 
Tasting Notes
As usual, I tried to taste less common varieties or styles when I could.
Region SLO
2023 Adelaida Picpoul Blanc Adelaida District
White flowers on the nose. Medium-light bodied. A touch of creaminess but overall a light feel. Quite vivid ripe green apples and white peaches. Medium acid. Spice. Long finish. 92
2021 Croma Vera Albariño MacFarm Vineyard Edna Valley
Savory medium nose but ripe, peachy palate with a zesty finish. Medium-bodied. Medium finish. Fresh, light and easy although there’s 14% alcohol. 90
2023 Colori Wines White Blend Monterey County AVA
65% Malvasia Bianca, 25% Pinot Bianco, 10% Pinot Grigio. Open tropical nose. Ripe pineapple and passion fruit which carries on to the palate which finishes more on a savory, minerally note. Touch minty. Medium-bodied. Low acid. Very fruity. Should be a crowd pleaser, but it’s not over the top. Stays relatively fresh. 12.8% alcohol. 91
2022 El Lugar Spanish Springs SLO Coast AVA Pinot Noir
Only 192 cases made. 14.5% alcohol. Some chocolatey, spicy oak and floral notes on the nose. The palate is full of ripe dark red berry fruity and a spicy finish. Mild tannins. Low+ acid but there’s enough with just enough restraint to not be heavy or flabby. Still definitely a riper, California, modern style. 91
2021 Alban Vineyards Patrina Syrah Edna Valley
Nose of citrus peel, ripe dark fruit, licorice. The palate has similar notes but it comes in a relatively light, elegant package for a California Syrah. Soft tannins. Low acid and ripe, so still feels New World and without the herbal or earthy Rhone notes. Long chalky finish. Leans closer to a California Pinot. Don’t feel the 14.9% alcohol. This winery doesn’t have a tasting room, so it’s hard to find this by the glass. 93
2018 Croma Vera Revelación Blend Paso Robles
52% Tempranillo, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Grenache, 5% Petite Sirah. Aged in 17% new French, 22% twice used French, 17% used American oak barrels for 17 months. Somewhat shy nose but the nose and palate are all about ripe dark and red fruits. Low acid. Licorice, spice and vanilla. Full-bodied. Still some mouth-puckering tannins. Fruity, modern, hedonistic crowd pleasing wine but less my style on most occasions. 91
Parr Collective Stolo Vineyards
2023 Palomino Cucamonga Revolution Scythian Wine Co. Cucamonga Valley
100 year old dry-farmed vines. Neutral oak. Light, floral, citrusy with a bit of spice, herbs. Medium-Light bodied with a bit of silky feel. Easy to drink and should be versatile with light foods and seafood. Great for aperitif. 90
2023 Gruner Veltliner Freund Brij Wines Santa Barbara Santa Rita Hills
Stainless steel and neutral barrels. Herbal on the nose and electric acidity on the palate with a light body. Savory back end. Again, another easy to drink white but even more crisp and acidic. 91
2023 Grenache Rosé Brij Wines SLO Coast Paso Robles
2 hour skin contact. Nose a bit mute at first but it’s opening up as it gets warmer with red fruit, herbal and floral notes. A bit of fizz. Tangy strawberries and raspberries. Medium finish. 90
2023 Oso Rouge Brij Wines SLO Coast Rancho Arroyo Grande
100% whole cluster, wooden cask fermented and aged in neutral barrels. Grenache-Mourvedre (65-35) – Light, clear color. Pretty, floral, red fruited nose making me think Pinot rather than Grenache. Could be the whole cluster. Light and easy palate with just a bit of savory, minerally and tannic grip on the back from the Mourvedre, so it needs a bit of food. Touch of fizz. Lower acid than the Grenache Rosé. Most natural wine feel of all the wines so far but in a positive way. 91
2022 Stolo Pinot Noir Cambria
50% whole cluster. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral barrels. More of a herbal, earthy and spicy nose but the palate is all about pure red berry fruits, with plus acidity, some tannins and a spicy finish. Lingering finish. Think this will get better. 91+
2022 Autrement Rouge Phelan Farm Cambria
100% destemmed. Stainless steel fermented and neutral barrel aging. Cool climate influence 3 miles from the Pacific. Pinot, Mondeuse and Gamay blend (40/40/20) Similar in style to the previous reds: light, tangy fruit but the fruit here is darker and the nose is spicier, meaty and darker too. Getting the Mondeuse more. Some tannins but a bit less than the Pinot. 91
Parr Collective Wines
This is an off-beat wine I picked up at a shop in SF and tasted while in SLO. Plus, here are two Paso Robles wines from a tasting for guests at my hotel in SLO.
2022 Massican “Vino Bianco” California
Massican is the only white wine only winery in Napa. This was purchased in 2023 by Gallo but they’re keeping northern Italy-inspired owner/winemaker Dan Petroski, with the expectation to increase production 6-7 times the 7,500 case production prior. 55 Pinot Blanc, 45 Cortese (same variety in Gavi from Piedmont) I see different varieties used in previous vintages, so it may vary each vintage. The nose is rather shy but more on the savory, leesy, smoky side than fruity. The palate, particularly the texture, stands out though. There’s orchard fruit and lots of ripe grapefruit. It has light fresh acidity you’d expect from an Italian white with a touch of salinity and touch of bitterness and medium+ finish. However, the texture is quite round and creamy, which makes it feel fuller while still being light with electric acidity. I’m guessing the round creaminess comes from the Pinot Blanc while the Cortese gives it the high acid. Don’t detect obvious oak or malo although lees time may also give it creaminess. Great deal and versatile wine for 20 bucks. 91
2023 Ancient Peaks Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc
Stainless steel only. Nice, fresh SB. Nose is shy but there’s a touch of herbal notes. The palate is fruity and fresh but in a restrained, non-tropical way. Chilean would be more green and herbal on average but most California SB would be riper, possibly oaked or with leesy aspects. This is fresh and easy, but fairly simple. The Santa Margarita Ranch is at the southern end of Paso Robles in a cooler micro-climate. 89
2021 Ancient Peaks Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon
This has oak notes, but well integrated into the dark fruit but again there’s restraint and freshness. Only 14.3% alcohol which is rather low for California, especially Paso Robles these days. A really solid, fruity, easy Cab although there are some gripping tannins for further aging. Medium length. 90+.
My time in Sonoma was much more social, so I didn’t bother to try to rate the wines. I just took a few notes when I could.
St. Francis Winery
2023 Martinelli Vineyard Chardonnay Russian River Valley
Neutral oak and some malolactic. Apple fruity nose, some mild spice and caramel. Medium-light body. Medium-acid. Mild creaminess, butter but not much. A bit of salinity on the end. Medium finish. Touch of heat.
2022 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Nose of earth and spice, chocolatey. Only used oak. Plus intensity. Medium bodied. Smooth tannins. Dark Red fruit. Medium acid for Pinot. Touch bitter on the back end.
2022 Moon Mountain District Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon
100% Cabernet S., at 1700 ft elevation. 30% new oak. Nice ripe, dark berry nose. Mild oak. The palate is fairly round. Lower acid. Dark fruit, touch camphor, chalky. Still young and tannic, but approachable with fatty foods.
2022 Moon Mountain District Zinfandel
100% Zin. Darker and riper than the Dry Creek, but there’s still more acid than the Cab. Both Zins are high alcohol. Rounder.
2020 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel
Lighter color. Tiny bit of Petite Sirah – This is more elegant, lighter. Not as much body. Higher acid.
2021 Eletto Heritage Vines Sonoma
96% Zin, 4% Petite Sirah – Old Vine Zin. Step up in intensity. More obvious. Longer finish. Some vanilla. Round and smooth. Around the same ripeness, acidity and body as the Moon Mountain. Feel the alcohol less. Just the most complete and refined of the Zins.
Red Car Wine
~5000 cases total, most cuvees around 350 cases, but 2000 cases of the Rosé. Everything sourced from vineyards 3-5 miles from the coast.
2023 Rosé of Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Floral, peachy and fresh. Citrusy acid. Easy. Food friendly.
2022 Mohrhardt Ridge Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview
Barrel fermented (neutral) – Mild spice, but mostly about zippy, citrusy stone fruit. Crisp. Clean. Mineral salinity. Impressed. Very much going for Chablis here.
2021 Estate Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot
Floral nose, red berry fruit, Elegant. Medium bodied and acid. Some bitter tea notes. Spice. 15-18 months in neutral barrels for both Pinots with around 15-18% whole cluster.
2021 Heaven and Earth Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot
The nose is more savory and earthy with a bit of spice. Darker, more tannic. Dark red berry fruit. Some tea. Richer than the estate.
2021 Mohrhardt Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Fort Ross-Seaview
At 1400 elevation. Rare Cab from this area. Dark and red berry fruit, herbal. Some coffee and chocolate. Medium+ acid for a Cab. Full-bodied. Tannic but soft and manageable with food. Closer to higher end Chilean Cab vs. most Cali Cab but less pyrazine ~30% new oak.
Region Sonoma
2022 Aperture Chenin Blanc Clarksburg
Leesy, touch herbal. Medium-bodied Medium acid. Some salinity, Stony notes and spice on the backend. Long minerally finish. Clarksburg is actually in Sacramento County, but Aperture is based in Healdsburg.
2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Pretty floral nose. Dark cherry fruit, touch of cola. Medium-low acid. Silky feel. Sweet spice.
2021 Sébastien Wines Montepulciano Russian River Valley
It’s more spiced and savory with dark berry fruit. Round. Medium-low acid.
2021 Merriam Cabernet Franc Russian River Valley
Floral, herbal nose. The palate is medium bodied with low acid, darker fruit, spice and chocolate.
Pax Wines
Most of their reds go through carbonic or partial carbonic maceration. They all use whole cluster. Grapes are sourced from in and out of Sonoma.
2022 Trousseau Gris Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard Russian River Valley
This is a white grape with a pinkish, orange color but from the flesh. This is different from their skin contact version. Sort of leesy notes on the nose. Feels low intervention. The palate is full and round for a white. Low+ acid. Tastes more like a red wine or rosé. Different. A mutation of Trousseau, this is a rare variety with only a few plots left in California with some mixed in field blends, while there’s even less in France. .
2023 Lyman Ranch Chenin Blanc Amador County
Reductive nose. Slightly spritzy at first with citrusy acid. Medium-bodied.
2022 Mourvedre Alder Springs Vineyard Mendocino County
Reminds me more of Beaujolais with native yeasts, I think a lot of what they do here is carbonic maceration. Dark fruit. But it’s more tannic. Spicy. Licorice. Leather. Low acid. After asking, they say partial carbonic.
2022 El Dorado County Syrah
Syrah in flavor profile but a fresher, somewhat lighter and natural version. Fruitier. Spicy. Herbal. Meaty nose. Mild but present tannins. Full carbonic.
2022 Sonoma Hillsides Syrah
This is bigger and darker, less acidic and rounder. Some oak. More tannic. More potential but similar style overall. Partial carbonic.