Have you tried wine from New Mexico before? Let’s try one out and see how it compares to an international classic.
New Mexican Wine
As I’ve written in all my posts about Californian wines off the beaten the track: wherever the Spanish were in the Americas, there’s bound to be Vitis Vinifera, the dominant European species of wine grape vines. Although the Spanish enslaved and killed the local people, at least they left us with wine grapes to console us. I’ve reviewed Chilean, Argentinian, Uruguayan, Peruvian and Mexican wines already. Why not New Mexico?
The Spanish indeed were the first to plant wine grape vines in New Mexico around 1629 along the banks of the Rio Grande. Unfortunately, these areas began flooding in the late 19th century, and along with Prohibition the wine industry never recovered until the 1970’s. Nowadays, the 3 New Mexican AVA’s are located at high elevation to help manage the desert climate and make better quality wines. There are about 40 wineries there today.
By the way, California’s first recorded vineyard wasn’t planted until 1769 in San Diego, so New Mexico predates it. Even vineyards in Baja California, planted in 1683, were still after New Mexico. Therefore, New Mexico might have the longest history of winemaking in the US although modern-day Mexico has wineries dating back to the late 16th century in central Mexico. There is new evidence, however, to suggest Native Americans in nearby Texas made wine from grapes before Columbus, so maybe there were grapes in what is now New Mexico being used for wine prior to the Spanish too.
Gruet
One of the most well-known New Mexican wineries was founded in 1984 by Champagne producer Gilbert Gruet. It all started the previous year, when the Gruet Family was traveling through New Mexico and met some winemakers in Engle, about 170 miles south of Albuquerque. They decided to do their own experimental plantings of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to make sparklings, and 2 of his children moved to New Mexico to run the winery.
Gruet sources from 3 vineyards. They have 75 acres in Engle at 4,245 feet over sandy loam soil. They also source from the Luna Rossa Vineyard at slightly higher elevation. Lastly, in 2014 they started a partnership with the Native American Pueblo of Santa Ana,* between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, to source exclusively from the Tamaya Vineyard at 5,110 feet elevation.
Of course they use the Traditional Champagne Method for their wines. They make all types of non-vintage and vintage sparkling wines along with some still reds.
*There’s a similar Chilean project working with native Mapuche to make wine.
Vintage Champagne
I happened to have a vintage Champagne laying around, so I thought it would be fun albeit an unfair comparison. I also realized that I hadn’t posted about any Champagne in this blog. I’ve mostly looked at Champagne alternatives like Chilean Sparklings and Cremant wines since Champagne is so expensive in Chile.
Vintage Champagne differs from non-vintage Champagne in that they only feature juice from one vintage, and it’s only made in excellent years. In addition, the required aging time on lees is at least 3 years compared to only 15 months for non-vintage Champagne. Therefore, you can expect a richer, more refined and ageworthy expression of Champagne.
Tasting Notes
2016 Gruet ‘Gilbert’ Grande Reserve New Mexico
Like with Champagne, they only make their vintage sparklings in their best years. Champagne Method. 100% Free-run Chardonnay. 6 months oak aged and then 3+ years sur lattes like with vintage Champagne. I could not find information on the dosage. I got this for $37.
Nice bready, yeasty nose. Nice initial beads but not super persistent. Fresh and tangy notes. Fruity but not sweet. Definitely Brut. Mild oak influence. Could easily mistake this for Champagne. 91
2008 Laurent-Perrier Brut
With more than a 200 year history, Laurent-Perrier is one of the top Champagne producers and can be found worldwide. It’s also famous for being the first producer to feature unoaked Champagne, which other Champagne houses have replicated.
50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims; Verzy, Verzenay, Ambonnay, and Tours-sur-Marne and, from the Cotes des Blancs; Ie Mesnil, Cramant, Oger, and Chouilly. Aged 10 years on its lees. 8 grams per liter dosage. 2008 is supposed to be one of the greatest vintages ever in Champagne with plenty of acidity to ensure long aging.
Everything you want in the nose with toast, puff pastry and citrus. The palate is elegant, fresh. Some creamy foam and lingering salinity. On the second day, it’s even more integrated, easy and still just as intense and luxurious on the palate. I’m not that experienced with aged Champagne, but for me it’s in a great place if you still want plenty of freshness and bubbles. However, you can age it longer for tertiary notes. 94
Conclusion
Of course the vintage Champagne from an all-time great vintage was impressive. However, the New Mexican sparkling held its own despite being half the price. At the same time, the Laurent-Perrier Vintage Champagne is a relative bargain in the realm of top vintage Champagnes, and it was a clear step above the Gruet or any non-vintage Champagne. I particularly like their fresh, elegant and unoaked style. Thus, it’s a great one to try if you’ve never had vintage Champagne.