The 2019 Laberinto Cenizas de Laberinto Sauvignon Blanc is from the eastern part of the Maule Valley closer to the Andes where you can find volcanic soil. Winemaker Rafael Tirado actually has part of his vineyard planted in the shape of a labyrinth, hence the name. Most Chilean Sauvignon Blanc comes from the coastal regions of Casablanca and San Antonio, so this wine is already unique in that it comes from Maule. The different terroir makes a huge difference in this wine. Typical Chilean Sauvignon Blanc tends to be generous in fruit and citric freshness along with some notions of minerality, salinity from the ocean air, and herbal notes. However, the Laberinto is dominated by minerality and acid with a bit of fruit in the background. The nose is complex: flinty and minerally with some herbs and spice. No doubt this is from the volcanic soils. The palate is very acidic with saline minerality along with a touch of herbs and something bitter. There’s a faint underlying green apple fruit. It’s a little fuller and more complex than an average Sauvignon Blanc although it sees no malolactic fermentation. It does spend some time in lees to gain complexity.
This is considered one of the best Chilean Sauvignon Blancs among critics, who have given previous vintages of this wine 94-95 points. However, I prefer Calyptra’s Sauvignon Blanc, which is also highly touted but more refined and fuller with more fruit and some oak influence. I would say Calyptra’s is more like a Bordeaux white while this Laberinto is more like a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc like Sancerre. However, the Laberinto is about 10 dollars cheaper at about 13 dollars in Chile and 18 dollars in the US. Around 1,200 cases are made. I would pair it with oysters or some type of seafood stew. It’s a little too much for sushi unlike other Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. 91+ AC
By the way, this producer also makes some Pais and Riesling made in clay amphoras with a thin veil of flor (yeast) under the label Arcillas de Laberinto.