Although I recently found some producers trying to revive Carmenere in its old home, Bordeaux, Chile’s actual closest competitor for Carmenere is Italy.
Italian Carmenere
This is the second Italian Carmenere I’m reviewing. The first was from San Leonardo in Trentino. In the case of Carmenere at San Leonardo, they had a similar story to Chile’s; It was once thought to be a different grape (in this case Cabernet Franc rather than Merlot as it was in Chile), but then it was later discovered to be Carmenere.
However, according to Inama, whose Carmenere I’m trying out for this post, Carmenere probably originated along the Dalmatian Coast in Croatia (just like Zinfandel). During the Roman Empire, it made its way to Bordeaux, where it became one of its primary varieties, but it was lost to phylloxera except unknowingly in Chile until the 1990s.
From Bordeaux, it apparently also went to northeastern Italy during the mid-19th century like it did in Chile. It was often called Black Bordeaux, Old Cabernet or mistaken for Cabernet Franc. With Chilean Carmenere’s notoriety, more and more producers in Italy, particularly Friuli and Veneto, have had their “Cabernet Franc” tested so they could start making varietal Carmenere too.
In fact, there’s now a DOC Carmenere Colli Berici in the Vicenza, Veneto region, where this Inama Piu Carmenere comes from although it’s blended with some Merlot. Inama makes a 100% Carmenere Riserva DOC Carmenere Colli Berici called Oratorio di San Lorenzo too. As usual, I found a Chilean Carmenere to compare it with to have a reference point.
Tasting Notes
2021 Viña Peñalolén Carménère Central Valley
From Clos Quebrada de Macul, who are better known for the Domus Aurea Cabernets. In the past, this was all sourced from Maipo or Cochalgua, but this vintage says Central Valley, so it must be a blend from Maipo and Rapel Valleys. All the hallmarks of modern Chilean Carmenere: dark berry fruit, plum, peppercorn and tomato leaf on the nose with a round, fruit-driven medium-bodied palate with medium acidity. There are creamy oak notes in the background. It stands out for its super silky feel and suave tannins. The 14.5% alcohol is not noticeable. 91
2021 Inama Carmenere Piu Veneto
(85% Carmenere, 15% Merlot) 12 months in used barriques. The Carmenere vines date back to the 1800’s. Dark color, semi-opaque. Ripe dark fruits with sweet baking spice and coffee. It carries on to the palate. Ripe. Some spice. Some herbal, medicinal notes on the back end. Medium+ alcohol. Medium-bodied. Medium-low acid. Elegant texture. A touch of heat without food. Should be better with food. More modern than expected, but not New World/Chilean either. It’s more like a Right Bank Bordeaux with a good percentage of Cab Franc. 90+
Conclusion
Overall, I feel the style of San Leonardo’s was more distinctly Italian. Therefore, it made a nice distinction from the average Chilean Carmenere. However, the Inama was more like modern Bordeaux from a warm vintage and hence closer to Chilean Carmenere in style than the San Leonardo version. At the same time, I don’t think anyone would be disappointed by the Inama Carmenere. The Peñalolén Carmenere was rather typical Chilean except there’s a Bordeaux elegance to it, which could be due to its French winemaker.