Time to go way beyond Chile for this post and explore Austria’s versatile white grape: Grüner Veltliner.
Grüner Veltliner
Grüner Veltliner is a variety almost exclusively found in Austria with a bit in central Europe and other parts of the world. Although Chile grows a lot of unknown or lost varieties, it’s something I’ve never seen produced here in Chile. Therefore, I haven’t had this variety since I lived in Switzerland over 6 years ago. Luckily, we have a great importer in Santiago, so I found a bottle to explore with you all.
The variety Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s national grape. Some may argue it’s not their best grape, but it’s by far their most planted. Most would say that it’s a variety that’s easy to like and pair, given it’s usually light and crispy with a little green vegetable, spice and/or minerality. It’s definitely something Sauvignon Blanc fans should like, and they are usually well-priced for the quality.
However, there are also some that are more expensive, bigger, riper and more age-worthy from warmer areas like Wachau. These may also spend time in used oak casks or even new oak. I admit that I personally haven’t tasted enough Austrian wine to distinguish all the regions and subregions, but that’s precisely why I keep exploring and blogging. Most that I have tried have been from Wachau, which is where the wine I’m reviewing in this post is from.
Tasting Notes
2021 Weingut Knoll Loibner Federspiel Grüner Veltliner Wachau
Weingut Knoll is one of top producers in Wachau, if not all of Austria. Their label is easy to recognize with an image of Saint Urban, the patron saint of winemakers and vines. This particular bottle costs $30+ in Chile and the US.
The grapes come from their vineyards towards the bottom slopes of the steeply terraced Loibenberg hillside. Hand harvested. 1-4 hours skin contact. Fermentation in stainless steel and old wood casks. Native and cultured yeasts. Aged on lees for 4+ months with no batonnage.
Not the most fragrant wine at the moment. Tight on the nose with mostly white fruit and lees notes. However, the palate is pretty and expressive. There’s a touch of fizziness that fades over the meal. It’s quite oily and round in feel with medium+ acid. It’s mostly about green apple and white peach fruit. Mostly I like the feel. Despite the rich, oily side, it’s quite easy and light too. Seems quite versatile for food pairings too. I think this can still open up some more and develop, especially on the nose. Some Grüner Veltliner I’ve had in the past have been more herbaceous, spicier and lighter, but some are more like this one: richer, riper but with still good acidity while I’ve had a California one that was basically tropical and lower in acid. Some from Wachau have more flinty notes, but I don’t get that so far. 91+
Conclusion
I recommend you try a bottle of Grüner Veltliner as a fun alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. However, the more serious ones like from Weingut Knoll, can be a cheaper alternative for White Burgundy lovers.
