After exploring some ancient varieties from Greece and Armenia, I’m going to explore two old, rarer Italian grape varieties from Piedmont and Campania.
Erbaluce
This white grape variety from northern Piedmont has been around for hundreds of years, particularly in the sub-region of Caluso close to Turin. There are sparkling versions: Caluso Spumante and sweet versions from semi-dried grapes called Caluso Passito. Dry-versions are labeled Erbaluce di Caluso. Dry versions are generally light, crisp, high acid wines with floral notes.
Pallagrello Nero
Pallagrello Nero is an ancient, once coveted variety that almost went extinct due to phylloxera until recent efforts helped to revive it. It can be found in Campania although it may have Greek origins. In the late 18th century, it was the favorite variety of King Ferdinand the IV of Naples. With its small, thick-skinned grapes, local winemakers love its potential to make intense, full-bodied, high alcohol wines but with soft tannins. Because production is still so small, producers have to use the regional IGT designation of Terre del Volturno.
Tasting Notes
2016 Nanni Copè “Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco” Terre del Volturno Campania
Pallagrello Nero with some Aglianico and Casavecchia; 13 months in medium-sized barrels. 6,500 bottles made. Dark, tongue staining purple. The nose actually reminds me of Bordeaux with chocolate, spice and herbal notes. Also a bit floral. Expressive on the nose. It’s more black fruited, but there’s typical Italian acidity. It’s medium-bodied with some mild tannic structure. Medium alcohol. It’s an interesting wine. A food wine. I like it but it’s not cheap in the US and the quality doesn’t quite match its price other than the extra value of the rare variety and small production. 91
2023 Cieck Erbaluce di Caluso Piedmont
Whole cluster pressing, 14 days fermentation in stainless steel, no malolactic fermentation Aged 4 months on the lees. Nose is floral, leesy, sort of air freshener like notes. The palate is crisp, clean with citrusy medium+ acid. Medium-bodied. Some rocky, salinity on the back end. 91
Conclusion
I like both of these wines. They should be versatile with food and should please any guests you serve them to. The Pallagrello Nero was a bit expensive, but I’m happy to support more local production of this variety, and I’ve seen cheaper bottlings out there. If Aglianico is southern Italy’s Nebbiolo, then Pallagrello Nero could be like a southern Italian Barbera.