Let’s review a wine from one of Chile’s top new winemakers.
Chile’s Continued Pioneering
New labels and producers keep popping up in Chile. When I first started this blog 5 years ago, I had a list of around 200-300 wineries in my directory. I now have 780 and counting. This means there are different terroirs being explored, vineyards being revived, new winemakers emerging or experienced winemakers coming up with new labels. After highlighting one of the top rising stars, JP Martin earlier this year, I wanted to share another one for wine geeks to seek out.
Chile’s New Darling Winemaker: Ana Maria Cumsille
Around 4 or 5 years ago, Chilean wine geeks started to go gaga over the wines of Ana Maria Cumsille. Despite already over 20 years of experience in the industry learning and working at places like Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux, Lafite’s Los Vascos and Viña Altair in Cachapoal, and Viña Indomita in Casablanca, she finally got her own label. Her eponymous labels from Itata highlighted her experience as winemaker for Viña Cucha Cucha, working with old vine Pais and Cinsault. Now her label is considered one of the best representations of Pais and Cinsault in the country.
Her success at the boutique level caught the attention of Viña Carmen, which is definitely more on the commercial side of winemaking since being purchased by Viña Santa Rita in 1987. However, Viña Carmen has kept its original terroir-driven winemaking philosophy despite the merger. Therefore, it made sense to hire Cumsille as their head winemaker in late 2023.
The benefit of having the backing of a large company like Santa Rita is increased distribution around the world. Therefore, if you can’t find her own personal label, you might be able to find her wines through Viña Carmen. Beyond their Bordeaux blends, I recommend their DO line such as their Loma Seca Cinsault, Matorral Chileno Carignan blend and Quijada Semillon. Wine geeks should also seek out their Florillón, a Semillon made with velo de flor.
Viña Carmen’s various levels of Bordeaux blends can be found in supermarkets here in Chile, but you have to look for her personal label and Carmen DO labels in wine shops. I found one to review for this post.
Tasting Notes
2022 Ana Maria Cumsille Charles Rodriguez El Litre Cinsault Itata
100% Cinsault. 30 year old vines in Guarilihue Alto. Granitic rocky soil with sand and clay about 25km from the Pacific. Charles Rodriguez produces the grapes while Ana Maria Cumsille is the winemaker. 50% whole bunch. Native yeasts. Fermented in old tinajas and then 12 months in old oak barrels. Stony and minerality with vivid, ripe cherry fruit. Medium-acid and Medium-body. A little more body than average for Cinsault from Itata. Some spice. Eventually, typical floral notes emerge on the nose. Soft, chalky-tannins. Well-balanced. It was a little too cold, so I think the aromatics will open more. This is a little darker, fuller and more structured than other Cinsault from the region, but it keeps its identity as Guarilihue Cinsault. 91+