Wine Review: Cool Climate Shiraz

I’m a big fan of cool climate Syrah more than Syrah from warmer areas. Australia has a reputation for warmer, riper, rounder Shiraz from South Australia. However, there are regions with cool climate Shiraz in Australia as well. 

Cool Climate Australian Shiraz

First of all, even within the South Australia region, there are cooler climate pockets at higher altitude where they grow Riesling but also Shiraz, like the Clare and Eden Valley. However, these are still on the riper side compared to other parts of Australia. 

Places to the southeast in Victoria like the Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley are some of the coolest in the country  and have some Shiraz although they’re more famous for Pinot and Chardonnay.  

In New South Wales, there are some hotter areas but also cooler areas at higher elevation or on the coast. One such area is Canberra, which has high elevation areas making fresher styles of wines in general, including Shiraz.  I found one to try out for this post. 

Lastly, in Western Australia there are cooler, coastal regions focused on Chardonnay and Bordeaux varieties, but they also make some Shiraz. Margaret River is the most famous region here, but Frankland River is where cool-climate Shiraz shines. I also found a top producer from this region to review.   

Tasting Notes

2022 Swinney “Estate” Syrah Frankland River

Some whole bunch used. Stainless steel and oak vat fermented then aged in large French Oak (7% new) for 11 months. Unfined. Minimal sulfites used. This has easy to like upfront juicy fruit, with some chocolatey, coffee oak notes and round but present tannins. At the same time, there are savory meaty and bloody notes, restraint on the ripeness (compared to other Aussie Shiraz) with plus acid bringing me more towards Northern Rhone. It’s more medium-bodied and elegant in feel. Nice balance between modern and traditional. Great deal too at 30 bucks. 93

2022 Clonakilla O’Riada Shiraz Canberra

95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier. 12 months in French oak. Pretty floral nose with savory spicy, herbal notes. The palate is light for Shiraz, elegant, round tannins, dark and red fruit and low acid. I expected more acidity as a cooler climate Shiraz, so I wouldn’t confuse it for a Northern Rhone, but there’s an elegant, light and easy aspect to this Shiraz with a fruity and floral profile. 91

Conclusion

These are both versatile and easy drinking Shiraz that still pack a lot of punch and complexity in a fresh package. The Clonakilla was a little overpriced given its reputation as the top producer from the region. However, the Swinney is a steal and fresher but harder to find. Don’t hesitate to try either if you’re a fan of cool-climate Syrah. 

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