Wine Review: Chilean Blanc de Noirs

Let’s try a rare non-sparkling Chilean Blanc de Noirs made from Pais. This is not to be confused with the just as rare Pais Blanco, a white mutation of the red variety Pais. 

Blanc de Noirs in Chile? 

Non-sparkling Blanc de Noirs wines, which are red-skin grapes made like white wines with no maceration, are not that common in general. Lighter rosés are the closest you usually get, but it’s more trendy to find orange wines, which are white grapes made like red wines. 

However, I’m starting to notice more still Blanc de Noirs wines in France, like this Blanc de Noirs Grenache I reviewed recently. I also ran into several while in the Medoc from smaller producers in a red winemaking zone trying to have a white in their portfolio, but it’s something you mostly see locally at the winery itself. In Chile, maybe I’ve only had a couple. The only one I can remember was a Blanc de Noirs Carmenere from Chillan

The one I’m reviewing here has been made since 2017, but this is my first time trying it. 

Tasting Notes

2022 Garage Wine Co. Phoenix Ferment Cauquenes Maule

150+ year dry-farmed old vines on granite, coastal vineyards. Whole bunch pressed lightly. Native yeasts. Stainless steel aging. 9+ weeks on lees with some stirring. Only 6471 bottles made. 86% Pais, 14% Carignan. It’s fruity and floral on the nose with a touch of herbs and minerality. On the palate, it has the grapey, vinous quality like I get in many blanc de noirs sparklings. The color is clear with hints of pink, making it closer to a light rosé or white zin in color although this is definitely a dry wine. A bit peach ice-tea like. Medium-bodied. Medium+ acidity. There’s a tang to it that reminds me more of reds or rosés, so it stands out from standard “whites.” A summer wine. 90 When do we start calling this a rosé vs. a blanc de noirs? Well, on the second day, the bits of pinkish hue disappeared. Maybe the lighting was just different. It’s still definitely a different type of white but it’s hard to tell what grape variety it is. The skins provide so much of the character of a variety. Perhaps that’s why not a lot is made. 

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