Bordeaux produces so much wine that there are bargains at every price point that punch above their price tag. Let’s look at a few highly rated ones.
Bargain Bordeaux
Given the improvement in winemaking, global warming and the sheer volume produced in Bordeaux, there are bargains across the board for delicious Bordeaux that can age at least 10-15 years even at the under $20 range. Sometimes they’re even cheaper en primeur (2 years before they’re released), but it depends on the hype around each vintage (and now tariffs) how much you’ll have to pay for excellent Bordeaux though.
I’m going to try out some Bordeaux I originally bought en primeur at around $25-35. The two older ones were around $25 10 years ago but their current releases are closer in price to the younger one, which I got for around $35. These are all wines that year after year get 90-95 points from all the critics, which is the same as some Bordeaux often twice their price. Most of these scores were given en primeur and/or upon release, so with this comparison I’m not only checking out if they are truly bargains but how well they’re aging too.
Tasting Notes
2014 Tronquoy-Lalande, Saint-Estèphe
Same producers as the 2nd Growth Montrose also in St. Estephe. Prior and recent scores from critics range from 92-95 points. 56 % Merlot, 37 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 6 % Petit Verdot and 1 % Cabernet Franc. 25% new oak. The nose is a pretty mix of chocolate, oak spice, baking spice, floral notes. Round but still some tannins. Palate is less interesting at the moment. Medium-low acid. Still primary and secondary. I feel there’s more evolution to come. The palate needs to open up and integrate better. This is the least modern of the three partly due to the winemaking, having less Merlot and the cooler vintage although it was a strong vintage in the northern Medoc like St. Estephe and Paulliac. 91+
2015 Tour St. Christophe St. Emilion
The owner also produces other bargain Right Bank wines like Haut Brisson and Bellefont-Belcier along with a more expensive Pomerol called Enclos Tourmaline. I’ve seen scores for this one ranging from 90-96 points. 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. 40% new oak. 2015 was considered an excellent vintage for the Right Bank and southern Left Bank like Margaux and Pessac. PnP. It still appears youthful. No sign of bricking. Overall, the wine is very secondary note dominated at the moment and seems in transition. The nose has plus intensity with chocolate, coffee and tobacco. The palate is also oak driven, a bit bitter but after an hour+ of air, dark fruit notes start to appear with medium-low acid. The texture is silky and light despite the medium+ body and still present tannins if drunk without food. No sense of the 15% alcohol. It’s starting to verge on tertiary truffles and dried fruit, but I still think it’s in transition. The overall impression is this is more on the modern side of Bordeaux but the fruit of its youth is in slumber. I imagine the fruit will come back and integrate with the oak on the palate but I like the nose and feel of the wine. More tertiary notes still await. In other words, it was probably better 4 or 5 years ago if you like primary fruit flavors or will be better in a couple or more years if you like mature Bordeaux, but now it’s in a limbo stage. This was kept at 55F since received after purchasing it en primeur at $25. On the second day, it still hasn’t changed much. A little more fruit but the alcohol is more noticeable too. Still tannic without food. I’m still not sure where this is heading. 90
2020 Sansonnet St. Emilion
They’ve had some well-known consultants like Rolland and Thunevin, who make modern styled wines. Their vines are located near other big names like Troplong Mondot, Pavie Macquin and Trotte Vielle. Some critics have given this up to 96 pts. Fermentation is usually in 70% new oak barrels and then 70% aged in oak and the rest in amphora. 95% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. 2020 was a highly rated vintage with most producers now having mastered the winemaking trend of “Modern Classic” Bordeaux, which means having more acidity and softer tannins than in the Parker era but keeping some of the ripe fruit to make them more approachable young. The nose is pretty, floral with perfectly integrated oak. Ripe dark fruit. The palate takes a little longer to open up but the fruit is slowly unfurling, with a silky body. Lowish acid. The 15% alcohol is hidden. Still could open up more. I rate it well now based on its refinement and elegance but more is still to come. 92+
Conclusion
All three wines are on the modern side of Bordeaux with round tannins, a decent amount of oak, ripe dark fruit flavors, higher alcohol and lower acidity. I can see their appeal at a young age given how the Sansonnet tasted and the early descriptions of the critics of the two older wines. In theory, given their current state, Bordeaux’s track record and the quality of the vintages, these should all age well at least until they’re 15 or even a lot longer. At the same time, I want a little more acid because that’s partly my preference, but it’s also better for future aging. The 2014 and 2015 might still be in dumb, transitional phases while the 2020 probably needs more decanting to open up. Still, I’m not sure they’re at the 95 point range, but given the original prices, I don’t have anything to complain about. Maybe I’ll try drinking these producers younger to enjoy their modern, hedonistic side, but I also have some to age and check out how they evolve at age 15+. Finally, another favorite Bordeaux I’ve liked at this price range is Chateau Laroque if you can’t find one of the other three mentioned here and they sound like your style of wine.