With Lebanon yet again being bombed and invaded by Israel (a pattern that seems to keep happening every 20 years), I decided to open a bottle of Lebanese wine to be connected with the suffering all over the Middle East, to remember the beauty and kindness I experienced in the region, and as a prayer for a just peace there.
War & Lebanese Wine
There are two main wine regions in Lebanon: The Bekaa Valley & Batroun Mountains. The former produces 90% of all wine in Lebanon. Obviously, there’s a long history of wine here dating back at least to the Phoenicians, and of course there was Roman influence. In fact, the most famous site in the Bekaa Valley region are the Baalbek Roman ruins, which feature the Temple of Bacchus, the god of wine. Just 30+ minutes south are most of the top vineyards.
The Ottomans, like other parts of the Middle East, caused the decline of wine production as non-alcohol drinking Muslims, but when the French ruled the area after WWI, they brought wine back. This is why most of the varieties grown here are French such as Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cinsault. However, there are also indigenous grapes being grown and revived like the ones I found from Israel-Palestine. For example, Chateau Musar’s white features the local varieties Merwah and Obaideh.
The wine region (and the whole country and its people) suffered again during the Lebanese Civil War from 1975-1990, which included the Israeli invasion in 1982. It was attacked again by Israel in 2006, and now again starting last month. Specifically, the town of Baalbek in the Bekaa Valley was hit hard and forced to evacuate. Dozens have already been killed there and thousands in the whole country.
Although the region has largely suffered from Western desire to control the area militarily for its oil and trade routes, its true wealth is the people. The culture, history and mystery of the region connects us to the divine, whether it be through one of the Abrahamic religions or the Bacchus cult of drinking its wine. All this war, on the other hand, takes us away from the divine and crushes the soul.
Atomo
Atomo is a project by a Chilean and Lebanese wine making couple. I have a lot more details in my article about their first wine together made from Chilean barrels they purchased across vintage, variety and region. The wine I’m reviewing is their first one made from Lebanese barrels they sampled and purchased.
Tasting Notes
NV Atomo Lebanon
They searched for the best barrels all across Lebanon to assemble this wine during another tumultuous period in Lebanon. At the time, Lebanon was suffering economically and experiencing the consequences of the pandemic. In addition, the Beirut Port explosion had just happened.
Blend of 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages using selected barrels from Ainata Reserve, Aurora, Chateau Ka, Chateau Kefraya, Chateau Sanctus, and Domaine Wardy. 70% Syrah, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Grenache.
The nose takes you to Syrah immediately with dark fruit and meaty, bloody, herbal and spice notes. The palate starts with juicy purple fruit but finishes with long soy and spice notes. Good acid for Syrah. Chalky tannins, which are fine with food. Otherwise, it’s smooth and silky. Medium+ body. The 14% alcohol is integrated well. An elegant wine in feel but a big savory side that makes it feel Old World. Could improve with more air or another 3-5 years of age. 92+