I tasted a 20 year old Bordeaux about 7 months ago, which I loved. Can a Bordeaux wine nearly double the age be even better?
1982 Vintage
1982 was a monumental vintage in Bordeaux. It’s the vintage that launched Robert Parker Jr. as the most influential wine critic in the world for 30 years, and in turn Parker helped put Bordeaux back on top in the wine world because at that time California was starting to outdo Bordeaux. It was a turning point in modern Bordeaux winemaking and style.
Although many still say 1982 was the greatest vintage ever, others point to how all of Bordeaux has modernized and perfected their techniques to make great wines even in lesser terroirs and lesser vintages that would’ve been disastrous decades ago. In other words, Bordeaux today is better all-around while 1982 was mostly great for the best terroirs.
Nonetheless, it’s still a privilege for me to taste such an old wine–a wine that was created when I was just the age of my children. It’s the year my 49ers won their first Super Bowl and my favorite movie was E.T. Growing up in California, my favorite food and drinks were KFC (before they changed their name), Taco Bell and root beer floats. Who would’ve thought that I would be drinking world-class wine and living thousands of miles away in another country decades later.
The Chateau
Château Ducru Beaucaillou is a 2nd Growth Cru Bordeaux wine from the appellation of St. Julien. It’s a producer that has seen its ups and downs throughout its history, and in the early 80’s they were not at the top of their game. They have since changed ownership and cut their production in half with more rigorous selection and lower yields to make one of the best wines in Bordeaux vintage after vintage. Now it’s considered a super-second growth Bordeaux.
Despite its down years in the past, the greatness of the 1982 vintage and terroir should still shine through if the bottle is good. With great wines at this age, the saying is “there are no great wines, only great bottles.” I bought this on auction from a reliable source, so the wine should’ve been stored well throughout its lifetime, but each bottle can take on a life of its own. Given the age and prestige of the vintage/producer, the $280 I paid is a relative bargain for a special birthday or anniversary wine. It was definitely a unique experience.
Tasting Notes
1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St. Julien
Today they approximately have 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot planted that goes into their top wine. They have added more Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot over the years while removing Petit Verdot, so I thought maybe that means there could be some Petit Verdot or even Cabernet Franc in this blend. In 1982, there was no Internet and a plethora of resources about each vintage as there are today, but I found one source that says the blend is actually 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, aged 18 months in 95% new oak. I’m not absolutely sure that’s accurate though.
Nose immediately smells like aged Bordeaux: a little musty, mushroom, tobacco but after time and with food you get the fruit, herbs, spice and leather. Some cedar and cinnamon and mint. Beautiful and complex with elegance. The palate started with plenty of acidity and tannins, but similarly over time with food and time more ripe fruit came with lots of tobacco and spice in a super silky package. Some anise. It’s so classic and classy. The label said 11-14% alcohol, but my guess is that it’s on the lower end of that spectrum. It was just a different era when alcohol levels were lower, and typically after finishing a modern bottle with higher alcohol between my wife and I, we’d be a little tipsy, but in this case we weren’t.
Compared to the 2000 Leoville Poyferre I had last year, I like the nose better. It’s just much more evolved and complex. However, the palate on the Leoville was more potent. This is more elegant and classic though. Not as ripe. Less of the dried fruit and more freshness oddly enough with the acidity. Even after the meal and decanting, there was still plenty of fruit and acid left suggesting it can last another 7-10 years if stored well. 95
